Routes : North America : United States : Colorado : High Peaks : Rocky Mountain National Park : Mt. Meeker : Flying Buttress Direct
PreviousFlying Buttress Direct - 5.10c
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock
Small wires to #3 Friend; bring RPs & maybe some flared nuts for pin scars, & a #3 Camalot would be
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Description:
The huge northern fin pointing toward Chasm Lake is the Flying Buttress. There are at least four distinct lines on the formation, and you can mix and match as you desire, but Direct goes more or less right up the crest. Begin on either thin 5.10 cracks or a 5.8 hand crack up a flatiron slab; Step left to an obvious seam and smear your way up this (10c): pro is adequate but difficult to seat well in the pin scars. Continue straight up the pillar to a good ledge. This crux section is demanding and certainly earns its grade. Continue up the prow; each pitch offers a section of 5.9-10 climbing, such as the choice on P3 to fire the intimidating 9+ roof out left or to step up right on a rotten scary bolt, clip two loose pins, and pass the overhang on exposed but easy ramps. The main route ends on a physical corner up a headwall; then you are on the knife-edge ridge leading toward Meeker's summit. To descend, traverse to the massif & drop right into a gully, which may entail downclimbing and in a wet year, substantial snow or ice.
Submitted by: timmet on 2002-07-25
Views: 1334
Route ID: 20908
5 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
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Onsight ascent by:
Excellent
Each pitch is stellar. Highly recommend the direct route which has lots of little pro so bring lots of RP's. We did a little scrambling at the bottom that was maybe 5.4 to get to the ledge starting the first pitch. Was nicer than hiking the snow.
Added: 2011-07-31
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
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| Scenery | |
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Hang Dog ascent by:
Great
Just go for it, don't worry about the options.
Added: 2007-08-08
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| Safety Rating | G |
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I thought this was hard for 5.9!
5.10 for the direct version sounds more reasonable. It was very nice climbing, though.
Added: 2007-04-11
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Ascent Note
Great route, and quite different from the standard RMNP fare of walls and spires. It should be noted that there is a 5.8 variation which avoids the 5.10c first pitch of the description, and is probably more popular (as you can then do the whole route at 5.9). However, we did the 5.10 (Pat did a great job of leading this), and I would highly recommend it, especially if you like Lumpy Ridge. We did the whole climb in 4 pitches and every one was great. A very fast grade III compared to others I've done in the Park; we were back in town for a late breakfast!
Witnessed by: Pat
Added: 2001-07-07
Added: 2001-07-07
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Flash ascent by:
Ascent Note
Beautiful and good route awesome views...
Witnessed by: thad
Added: 2001-07-01
Added: 2001-07-01
