Routes : North America : United States : New Hampshire : Carroll County : Cathedral Ledge : The Prow : Recompense Beast Flake
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Recompense Beast Flake - 5.9 popular
Average Rating : 4.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 8
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (34)
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Rock
3
Standard rack with one or two cams in the 4 inch range.
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Description:
The start can be a little hard to find when its covered in leaves. Hike up the Recompense Trail, over wooden steps and ladders. When you're directly under the Prow make a short scramble left to a nice platform. p. 1 Wander up and left following inobvious weaknesses and crack systems. When in doubt go where the lichen isn't. Continue past an old piton belay to a 2 bolt belay. (5.7, 170+ feet). p. 2 Proceed up a double crack system until directly across from the Beast Flake. Look into the filthy chimney of the regular Recompense route, put in a good high piece, and make a long reach across and around the flake (5.9). Romp up easy jugs and liebacks (big cams) to the flake's top. Belaying above the fixed threads will put you in better shape for the next pitch. p. 3 A shorty. Climb down and curl around an awkward alcove. Once in it make a few strenuous moves up the squeeze chimney and belay at the base of a gorgeous dihedral. (5.8+) p. 4 Follow the perfect dihedral, the first 20 feet are in your face but above that rest stances are abundant. Damn that was fun.
Submitted by: lucander on 2006-04-28
Views: 2901
Route ID: 25765
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34 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 34 ascent notes
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
Recompense Beast
You're right, it was fun.
Added: 2011-07-14
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
2nd time
So good I had to go back a second time so I'd get to lead all the pitches
Added: 2011-06-13
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Amazing climb!
I've now led all but p3 of this climb. & the flake on p3 has apparently fallen off, making that a whole new pitch anyway. You must travers lower now. Don't climb too high.
Added: 2010-08-05
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
nice climbing
classic
Added: 2010-04-05
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
Hang Dog ascent by:
Great Route!
One of my first outdoor routes, hang dogged my first time following this route. Can't wait to retry it.
Added: 2010-02-21
