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Recompense Beast Flake - 5.9 popular

Average Rating = 4.75/5 Average Rating : 4.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 8
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (34)
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Rock
3
Standard rack with one or two cams in the 4 inch range.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.42/5
  Rock Quality 4.67/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.83/5

Description:

The start can be a little hard to find when its covered in leaves. Hike up the Recompense Trail, over wooden steps and ladders. When you're directly under the Prow make a short scramble left to a nice platform. p. 1 Wander up and left following inobvious weaknesses and crack systems. When in doubt go where the lichen isn't. Continue past an old piton belay to a 2 bolt belay. (5.7, 170+ feet). p. 2 Proceed up a double crack system until directly across from the Beast Flake. Look into the filthy chimney of the regular Recompense route, put in a good high piece, and make a long reach across and around the flake (5.9). Romp up easy jugs and liebacks (big cams) to the flake's top. Belaying above the fixed threads will put you in better shape for the next pitch. p. 3 A shorty. Climb down and curl around an awkward alcove. Once in it make a few strenuous moves up the squeeze chimney and belay at the base of a gorgeous dihedral. (5.8+) p. 4 Follow the perfect dihedral, the first 20 feet are in your face but above that rest stances are abundant. Damn that was fun.

Submitted by: lucander on 2006-04-28
Views: 1950
Route ID: 25765

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34 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cuoccoppi on 2011-06-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Recompense Beast

You're right, it was fun.

Added: 2011-07-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rhei on 2011-06-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars 2nd time

So good I had to go back a second time so I'd get to lead all the pitches

Added: 2011-06-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: wonderwoman on 2010-07-31 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Amazing climb!

I've now led all but p3 of this climb. & the flake on p3 has apparently fallen off, making that a whole new pitch anyway. You must travers lower now. Don't climb too high.

Added: 2010-08-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: utch on 2010-04-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars nice climbing

classic

Added: 2010-04-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: secander on 2009-09-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great Route!

One of my first outdoor routes, hang dogged my first time following this route. Can't wait to retry it.

Added: 2010-02-21

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