Polar Circus - WI5

This is on my all time top five ice climbs. Climbed it on a beautiful spring day that started in a snow storm. Couldn't find any rappel anchors at the Pencil, so ended up down climbing that whole section.

One of the best days on ice I had during my stay in Canada. Started real early by headlamp. Sunrise a couple of pitches up. Final crux was soooo good!

Huge thundering noice on the first tier (I combined those two pitches by simul climbing on 60's) of the upper pitches. I actually yelled avalanche to my belayer as I tried to pound a screw in. Weird deal, same as Kevin, we heard it, I felt it on the ice, we saw nothing. My theory goes like this. As I was bringing up my partner to the top of the first tier of the upper pitches, I witnessed some small ice starting falling when the sun hit the Ribbon. The Ribbon is adequately steep that small chunks of ice fall unobstructed right on the top of the base of the first tier formation. I believe if you are below or climbing on the ice, the echo and vibrations from this effect, due to the huge walls on both sides, are quite magnified. Or at least that was the excuse I was looking for to proceed. All ice was good, snow trails fast. The free air rap over what's left of the pencil, should be a paid ride at Disney.

Wonderful route. Climbed with Nurse Ratchet.

No comment