Ascent Notes for: Medicine Man - 5.13a A0 Average Rating : 4.00/5

Start in any of about 10 places. The best is probably the clean 5.9 crack that starts off a pillar with thin fingers (10B). At the anchor, follow bolts straight up a slab. The 11 A rating is a Calaveras rating. Above the slab, a good ledge with a marginal anchor. Head left and through tiered roof. Follow the corner to a bad anchor and tree, and then up the steep anchor past gear and two bolts. The next anchor is just OK. After this, AO or 5.13 up the face. Beyond is another 5.11 face with OK anchor and OK bolts. The bolted variation on pitch 3 has bad bolts.

Some pretty sketchy first few pitches lead to much more mellow climbing above. Some of the bolts above the headwall could use an upgrading though none of them are super horrible. 1/4in bolts on stainless hangers. At least they aren't spinning Leepers eh? Well, most of them aren't anyway. The runnout on the last pitch is death if you fall. Fortunately it's pretty easy 5.7ish. Unfortunately there's a water streak that goes right through it I had to climb through. Thought I was going for the big bouncy roll.