Ascent Notes for: Ro Shampo - 5.12a popular Average Rating : 4.50/5

3rd go of the day. blah!

lots of good holds on a surprisingly steep wall.

fun moves

Good ol time trying to get up this. Super physical (or I just suck). I look forward to getting in better shape and trying to redpoint this mean bastard.

09/04/09 2 goes bolt to bolt. probly should have tried to do it.

09/23/09 2 burns bolt to bolt. one ground up to the 4th bolt one hang at the 5th clip (upside down biner), slipped at the anchors

10/1/09 one bolt to bolt, redpoint first attempt.

Tried thos on toprope a couple of years ago and gave up at the second bolt. Cursed this reachy route forward and back and resigned myself to the fact that 5ft tall people aren't meant to climb it.

Stayed away for 2 years, until an urge to try it again struck with vengeance.

This time I hung my own draws. And while the moves were still reachy, the route felt easy overall. Maybe 11c/d? I can see how taller people might even call it 5.11b...

I was scared of the crux between the 3rd and 4th bolt, the "swing left, undercling and reach" sequence, but it turned out to be one of the easier moves on the route. Swinging for the sidepull before that sequence was harder, but the hardest move for me is still the long dynamic move between the first and second draw.

This is a longstanding project of mine - I thought the moves and climbing were really inspiring.
Still (apparently) not ready for a clean redpoint - hopefully this fall.

I got on this for the last climb of my trip. Unfortunately I did not have time to really project this (I had to leave for the airport). It was fun to take the whips. I know I can do this climb!
There was a copperhead near the trail on the way out...it was staying put so all was good.

.

-