Ascent Notes for: North Face - 5.11a popular Average Rating : 5.00/5

I led P1 and 2. Kent (The Sender) led P3. He found the #6 helpful. The P1 crux was an interesting puzzle. I was pleased, and surprised, to find that it was all protectable too!

I see David had some extra time in the airport to sign summit logs! Yes I concur, fantastic desert tower route, by anyone's standard. I like OW, but then I drink Coors light beer as well. Like David said, either take a #6 or stop at 4". I carried the damn #5 all the way to the summit on lead. The crux of those last two pitches was really the weird, hard to protect on lead, overhanging 2" crack on that meandering 2nd pitch. The story below regarding the young men who thought they were on the North Chimney as they battled the first pitch is kind of stories I sure wish climbing Mags would print more of, versus who the biggest climbing jock is. (we all know that is David!)

Wow! More fun than Primrose because there's a little less stress. 3 outstanding pitches. Led the first one with lots of huffing and puffing, even the stances are strenuous. Took 7 blue camalots, placed 6 of them. The crux final move is committing, well protected but difficult to downclimb. Dow led the upper two pitches, I thought this trade worked out because (1) it let me avoid the ankle cracking potential on p. 2 and (2) it let me heckle him while leading the OW on p. 3. A #5 camalot was wortheless on this pitch, if anything big take a #6.

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Having seen the first pitch rated from 11a to 11c i was a bit surprised by how easy the so-called crux was. You don't need to lie-back\undercling for more than two moves (and that's just moving your feet). after that there are plenty of good calcite crystals for feet and you can jam the rest.

if that route was in Sedona or Paradise forks it'd be 5.10

I loved the route, first pitch was tough in the mid section, easier finish than I expected. Top pitch was not too tough, use the wide gear early, the finish is a squeeze w/not much pro but odds n ends fit, nuts for the last 30'.

did this route with amanda from MO. sweet warm weather climb.

Classic, but.....brrrrrrrrrrrr!!!
Recommend 5x #3 camalots for P1.

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With all intentions of climbing the north chimney, we mistakenly hopped right on the north face. After jamming the first 100 feet of wide hands, I was worn out. Took a rest before the calcite crux ahead. I stayed in the finger crack to the left and placed a perfect yellow alien which would be soon tested. A few more moves later the crack went to rattly fingers. I tried to smear up the calcite slab only to come ripping off. 20 ft lower hanging below the entire crux section, I felt I could not go on. I didnt even have the strength to pull on the gear or yard back up to my high spot. I built a belay and brought up Sean. He was having the same troubles I was having, but he eventually aided through the crux. After attaining the belay ledge, we decided to rap. After thinking we totally got spanked by a 5.8 crack, we left with our tails between our legs. Later that night after going over the guidebook, we came to the realization that we just ascended the north FACE route instead of the north Chimney. Needless to say a huge burden was lifted after that news hit. Stellar climb, best on the tower, We will be back.