Routes : Reviews

Ascent Notes for: Butter Side Up - 5.11c Average Rating : 3.00/5

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Ratings
Difficulty	5.12a
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: jb2100 on 2016-03-06 (View Climbing Log)

Umm...What?

That roof pull is at least V4 by itself, unless I missed some crucial beta. V4 = 12a. This explains why I never see 5.11 climbers actually send this route.

Added: 2016-03-06

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11b
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Top Rope ascent by: kvochatzer on 2009-03-04 (View Climbing Log)

set up as a warm up

This seems to be a short v. tall rating. Tall climbers find no trouble going out and up above the roof before clipping the 3rd bolt, however not being in the tall category, it scares the hell out of me going to the bolt with such an extreme fall I've taken below on #2. It is not fun. I can only guess that tall climbers can stay low on the roof edge holds and extend to the bolt. I cannot come close to that and hang the draw.

warmed up on TR.

Quite frankly, the placement of #3 is one of the worst placements of fixed protection I've experienced in Austin. See John Hogge's new climb to the right of it for proper placement of a bolt over a roof. I've fallen on it with no big deal on landing.

Update 2013/02/27: 4 years later and there is finally a proper bolt to protect the fall at the crux.

Added: 2009-03-04