Ascent Notes for: Surrealistic Pillar Direct Finish - 5.8 Average Rating : 2.75/5

dirty up top with wonderful hollow flakes to pull on.

The original looks so much better. Unfortunately we missed the traverse and ended up on this chosspile. Loose and runout on easy terrain. Fortunately, the beginning (and G/PG) pitches are still classic. Now we know what to do next time.

The wide part was the most fun, didn't have #5 with me so I just run it out. I thought this was the 5.7 route, I guess that's what I get for climbing without the guide book.

There weren't too many loose rocks on this variation, only a few small ones and a big tv size one, just be carefull moving around it and the route's fine.

the wide crack is totally worth doing the whole way up!
I just took a #5 and slid it up the whole way placing the occasional nut....

We then belayed on the nice ledge right before the top...
VERY NICE ROUTE!

4/14/08 there was only one small wet spot right before the ledge but no big deal...

I ran it out from the chains on the first pitch and went 200' straight up. I should have stopped @ 40' lower and belayed from a comfy ledge instead. This seemed like the natural way.

(I, 5.8): Nice wide crack. A combination of off-width techniques and well placed dikes make this an enjoyable if sparsely protected climb.