Routes : Reviews
Comments: Show | Hide
Bombay Groove, a.k.a. Yankee Go Home - 5.10a
Average Rating : 4.60 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 4
Premier Sponsor:
Rock (Trad)
Sparse bolts.Double bolts at the belays.
|
|
Description:
aka Yankee Go Home. If you are standing at the base of the Great Arch, just look up and to the left - basically you'll be climbing along that arete. Start at the base of the Great Brown Way (just left of the start) to the first set of double bolts. Then traverse right to the edge of the arete. Then up you go.
Submitted by: bulldog on 2002-04-10
Last Modified: 2011-11-21
Views: 2300
Route ID: 15601
Ascent Note:
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Flash ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-05-22
(View Climbing Log)
Intimidating but Exciting
This was the third of four routes we climbed today in blistering heat. Again, I lead the entire route. We used the standard approach and climbed to the first bolt on Great Brown Way. I plugged a few cams into the flakes for added protection before clipping the bolt. It can be a little tricky actually getting to the bolt, so be safe. From there, a traverse is required to reach the arete. I found the traverse to be a bit intimidating and proceeded with much caution. Once on the arete, I felt at ease and clipped a single bolt on the way to the first belay. There is a small traverse to the left involved in reaching the belay since it is shared with Great Brown Way.
For the second pitch, traverse back to the arete and follow it to a bolt at a water groove. From there, follow the groove to the top. There was one more bolt in the groove and another set of belay anchors before reaching the top. The route is only supposed to have two pitches, so I do not know why there is another set of belay anchors. I clipped in for protection and continued to the double belay at the top. The only problem I encountered was the poor quality of the rock on the second pitch. Everywhere I stepped seemed to crumble due to the loose rock. Of course, I may just be too heavy for this type of rock. With the additional set of belays, we were able to make three raps back to the tree ledge with a single 70M rope.
For the second pitch, traverse back to the arete and follow it to a bolt at a water groove. From there, follow the groove to the top. There was one more bolt in the groove and another set of belay anchors before reaching the top. The route is only supposed to have two pitches, so I do not know why there is another set of belay anchors. I clipped in for protection and continued to the double belay at the top. The only problem I encountered was the poor quality of the rock on the second pitch. Everywhere I stepped seemed to crumble due to the loose rock. Of course, I may just be too heavy for this type of rock. With the additional set of belays, we were able to make three raps back to the tree ledge with a single 70M rope.
Added: 2011-05-22