205asobotka's Logbook (86 ascents)

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Bird of Prey Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11a
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: 205asobotka on 2013-06-08 (View Climbing Log)

Bird of Prey

Beautiful route! Ever since my first time in the canyon this climb has called my name, but was always somewhat intimidating. The pro is all good, and the three nicely spaced bolts add some extra security to the route. Technical crux lower, physical crux higher.

Added: 2013-06-09

Allez Lou Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.10c
Safety Rating	G

Onsight ascent by: 205asobotka on 2013-05-04 (View Climbing Log)

allez lou

Scott Duemler got me on this one. Really good climb, lost of opportunities to work on finger and ring locks if you take the time to skip some jugs. Pro is all good, the crux seemed to be within the first 15-20 feet.

Added: 2013-05-04

La Nariz Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11b
Safety Rating	G

Red Point ascent by: 205asobotka on 2013-05-04 (View Climbing Log)

la nariz

Tried this guy way back, over a year ago, and remembered the second crux giving me trouble. This time around was pretty mellow. First crux is physical, second two are technical. The third is easy once the necessary holds have been located (which can be tricky). Third 11 redpoint of the day, twas a good day.

Added: 2013-05-04

Submission Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11d
Safety Rating	G

Red Point ascent by: 205asobotka on 2013-05-04 (View Climbing Log)

submission

Tried this a while back and fell right before the anchors on my flash attempt. No problems this time. Long and sustained, the half way rest is much appreciated. Found the initial roof to be easy, the difficulty for me was the sustained nature of the climb.

Added: 2013-05-04

Transmission Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11a
Safety Rating	G

Red Point ascent by: 205asobotka on 2013-05-04 (View Climbing Log)

transmission

Mellow eleven. Good rests right up until the crux if you can get creative, crux itself is somewhat physical but still not too hard. Takes nuts like no other.

Added: 2013-05-04

Public Hanging Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11c
Safety Rating	G

Red Point ascent by: 205asobotka on 2013-04-22 (View Climbing Log)

PH

Really awesome climb. Comparable to smokin guns in quality, which, in my opinion, is saying alot. On the onsight attempt i didn't see a key pocket and opted for a dyno. After checking it out and finding the pocket i came down and got it clean next try.

Added: 2013-04-22

Deathwatch Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.10c
Safety Rating	G

Onsight ascent by: 205asobotka on 2013-04-07 (View Climbing Log)

Quiet day at the pinnacle

Really a good route, albeit a bit short. No need for protection between the bolts. After the bolts i placed one small piece and was comfortable, the bulk of the climbing is down low; top is just a little balancy until you get some good positive holds. stick clip is a good idea, i rapped it after doing chutes and ladders and just clipped it that way.

Added: 2013-04-07

Feast and Famine Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.10d
Safety Rating	G
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: 205asobotka on 2013-04-05 (View Climbing Log)

Faf

Really good climb, sort of torn on the rating though. I would say that the second roof is comparable to the crux on flakes of wrath, 11a. However, I had just got done with flakes of wrath, smoking guns, and a few attempts at cracka ass crack, so fatigue may have had some influence. Still, I would say that for the area the rating is pretty conservative. Also I was sort of perplexed at the fact that the whole route was protected well other than right at the crux (under second roof). No major injury would be likely, but you would definitely hit a ledge should you fall.

Added: 2013-04-05

Wish You Were Here Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.10a
Safety Rating	G

Onsight ascent by: 205asobotka on 2011-12-11 (View Climbing Log)

pm

should do it again, remember it being a fun start swinging up onto the chicken head.

Added: 2013-02-15

King of Pain Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.10a
Safety Rating	G

Onsight ascent by: 205asobotka on 2013-02-11 (View Climbing Log)

OG

Fun, thin climbing. Partner had about a 3" reach on me and basically got to skip all the parts i thought were hardest, excuses excuses. Jump start to the rock chunk, its cool. Oh yeah, i wouldn't recommend falling before the first bolt. Probably no serious injuries would result, but a badly sprained ankle is a definite possible as the landing is slanted.

Added: 2013-02-15

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