Skip to Content

Routes : Reviews

Achilleus30's Logbook (157 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (11)



Show: Sort by: Display:

Comments:  Show | Hide

> >|

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Bob Marley Crag

Beta-vul Pipeline Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: Achilleus30 on 2015-05-31 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars This one felt much much easier than the 5.11d Flush at same crag

Super good jugs almost all the way. There is one five finger almost hex-shaped hold near the top that one gets the pads of all five fingers on the R. hand wrapped around, and then pinches hard. Other than that, it's hug, comfy jugs on permadraws. Last bit to the chains was spicy because a L.h on a vertical crack gets you up to a R.h 2-3 finger pocket. L.f up to a good foot, then a R.f smear leaves you wanting way better holds to clip from. I hit the first slopper looking hold beneath the shuts with my L.h and felt it sucked, then slapped my R.h up to the other sloper-looking hold next to it, and found an awesome, thank-you-Jesus clipping jug.

Added: 2015-06-01

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): The Crossroads

Whippoorwill Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Achilleus30 on 2015-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Slabby Goodness

Clip the third bolt, then R.h sidepull with thumbcatch on top. L.h sidepull (lower of two right next to each other), L.f up almost into big pocket, R.f up to top nub of vertical crease in wall, L.h up to horrible nub, R.hand up to horrible nub nearest the L.h horrible nub..... (bigger looking R.h out right at small vertical crack is a red-herring), .....R.f up into big pocket, L.f up to edge lining the top of the previous L.f big pocket, L.h up to left side of thin tiny horizontal crease, L.f up to tiny barely visible, but most prominent nub, R.f up and smear with toe turned inward on optimal spot, R.h up to shitty two finger crimp, L.h up to better two finger crimp, walk feet to stable spot, move up to horizontal excellent clipping jug. Took me two burns, and about 6-7 falls at this lower crux on each burn, some bloody fingers, pouring sweat, and cursing the air blue to figure out this beta. On the third attempt I executed the above sequence exactly, and sent the route.

Added: 2015-06-01

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): The Crossroads

A1A Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Achilleus30 on 2015-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Warm Up Climb

Easy Slab

Added: 2015-06-01

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Left Flank

To Defy The Laws Of Tradition popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Achilleus30 on 2015-05-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars WarmUp route for Too Many Puppies

WarmUp route for Too Many Puppies. Already did this route back in 2008, but needed a warmup today.

Added: 2015-05-04

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Left Flank

Too Many Puppies Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: Achilleus30 on 2015-05-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sweet

In the past, I had toproped this, since it was WAY above my grade at the time. I didn't have the guts to lead it, nor did I make it all the way up. Today, not only did I lead it, but I made it all the way to the top. I think this is the only hangdog ascent I've ever been proud of. Sustained 5.12a climbing all the way up.

Added: 2015-05-04

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): de Bibliothek

A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: Achilleus30 on 2015-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars fun

Took a super fun (and scary) 21+ foot whipper from up high on this one. Very sustained. Made 3 attempts to lead it. 3 hands, 2 hangs, 4-5 hangs. After this last attempt was the worst yet, I realized I was out of gas.

Added: 2015-05-04

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): The Boneyard

Lucy Goosey Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Achilleus30 on 2015-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun

One of the bolts was hard to find. The route veers left after a ledge to a bolt. Clip that, and then the next bolt (or the one after) is hard to find. Partly because one is not sure if the route continues left, or veers back right, or goes straight up, but mostly because the bolt is hidden from view until one is almost at eye level with it. Committing for the guy hanging the draws.

Added: 2015-05-04

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Muir Valley

Armed Insurrection Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Achilleus30 on 2015-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars fun

Bouldery start to easy climbing.

Added: 2015-05-04

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Washboard Wall

Barenjager Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: Achilleus30 on 2015-04-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars No gas left in the tank for this one.

One-hung from the shuts twice on this one. Whipped from the shuts the first time, then just took at the last bolt the second time. Knew I didn't have the last 2-3 moves in me. Still a good workout/warmdown.

Added: 2015-04-06

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Washboard Wall

Brushfire Fairytales Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Achilleus30 on 2015-04-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars C.R.G. height climbing walls.

This climb, and Barenjager are both about 35ft. tall, or the same height as the Cleveland Rock Gym, where I train. The extremely short nature of the route is probably the reason I was able to send it.

Added: 2015-04-06

> >|