Rmsyll2's Logbook (28 ascents)

Had done the upper crack section from the top bolts: very ugly awkward climb with many jugs and foot places, 5.6 except for circumstances.

Lower section on separate TR: the top of the crack gives a good stance for rigging, but tie-in is not the best. Very mixed styles all the way up, which is not far. One tricky move to get past the little overhang is the crux to finish. The only 5.8 aspect imo is being able to hold by one hand to search for the other grip, with two thin feet placements. Stem and back-step smears usually necessary, minor hand jam useful.

Much disagreement about rating. I'm sticking with 5.7 for the usual route, finishing around the arete to the left of the edge ledge. I'm saying 5.8 for the bulge, now that I've done it--which I definitely could not manage before while doing other 5.7's.

IMO those downgrading this climb don't need to be on it, except briefly for the bulge pull. So let's see them do the smooth right top face, hmmm?

Back at this little monster after a few years, and it was a very hard time for me again. Made it clean, but took a fifteen minute rest before doing it again. Second time, knowing where the holds would be, was easier but still not easy. I still do not believe this is 5.7: too thin, too vertical and back-sloped, no rest, long awkward holds hunting for something good enough to rely on to move up. No good anchor either. Best thing about it is that it is almost always open, especially if you rig from the lower dangerously sloped slippery deck.

I was able to find a hold today to get out from under the little overhang trap, but still cannot find any way this is easy. What looks like a hold is rounded and sandy. An inexperienced climber will not find enough to grab and hold. Joe and Stacey thought 5.8, and I'm going to agree, to counteract the notion of putting beginners here. You must have very long rigging for this, too.

Having seen a beginner put on this route and having a hard time and a fall ("ledging out" or falling on the ledge is a real hazard), I can confirm that there is some difficulty here--just not 5.9 except on the direct line at the bottom. I was on the right to start, and ashamed of how far to the right. Above the ledge is a lovely cruise.

But repeating: rigging this for top-rope is the worst at Pilot imo. Imo, this should be anchored from gear for TR, especially for rappelling down.

LL

Shawn Barb led this for an afternoon's outing, Jeff belayed me as half-second: I had to unclip, and did reclip for Jeff to clean. At least as exciting as anticipated, a rush for me the whole way up. Less lie-back than it looks like it will have to be, with a gracious slope making it more possible than it looks. The most unusual climb for me so far by far. If you ever get a chance, highly recommended!

Jeff Dillon would not take a no for my answer to his offer of another belay, so up I went. So stressed by this route that he had to keep reminding me to unclip. And forgot to take a right, and did take a brief seat to get back on track. Having done it, can't believe it is really 5.9; but everyone and Jeff says so, so must be--especially on such a wicked lead: Shawn Barb put in a bunch of extra protection pieces. At my teasing challenge, Jeff did go straight up, slick as a cat.

This wall gets running water seeping from under the roof after a lot of rain, so don't count on being able to get on it. Otherwise, get on it.

After a generous offer of a harness and very well done belay from Jeremy on Sat., was given another generous offer of a harness and very well done belay from Anthony on Sun., with Adam very generously taking photos very well. Maybe not much of a climb compared to other climbs; but compared to nothing in over two years, it was encouraging enough for me to order a harness, with other gear to follow.
LL