Sirus's Logbook (47 ascents)

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Lazy Day Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.7
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: Sirus on 2013-02-17 (View Climbing Log)

Great for breaking into 5.7

This route was an easy 5.7, but maybe not so easy as to downgrade it to 5.6. I enjoyed the route - it took great gear, but did have a couple of parts that gave me something to think about. As a climber who's relatively new to the trad sphere, this route was a great confidence builder.

Added: 2013-02-18

Life's a Bitch and Then You Marry One Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.7
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: Sirus on 2013-02-16 (View Climbing Log)

Great 5.7 Confidence Builder

This route was short, very easy, pretty fun, and took gear really well. I'd say that this would be a good choice for somebody just breaking into 5.7 - it's an easy 5.7, but I'm not sure if it's quite 5.6

There are bolts with chains at the top of the route, but they're off to the right (over the other route), so I built an anchor that was more directly overhead. Finding good placements for the anchor was trickier than finding placements on the route, but doable.

Added: 2013-02-18

Route 66 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.9
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: Sirus on 2012-12-21 (View Climbing Log)

Great warm-up

Used this route as my second warm-up for Candy-O (immediately left). The footwork requires your attention pretty much the whole way. The last sequence seems different for every person, making it fun and a bit unique.

Added: 2012-12-24

Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.9
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: Sirus on 2012-12-21 (View Climbing Log)

Great warm-up

Used this route as my second warm-up for Candy-O (immediately left). The footwork requires your attention pretty much the whole way. The last sequence seems different for every person, making it fun and a bit unique.

Added: 2012-12-24

Ryane's Revenge Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.10a
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: Sirus on 2012-12-21 (View Climbing Log)

Okay

Chose this as a warm-up. Okay, but I probably won't do it again unless other choices are taken. The crux was around 1st/2nd bolt, wasn't particularly fun, and the rest was so-so 5-easy. If you're doing hueco wall, though, this may be a convenient warm-up.

Added: 2012-12-24

Gun for Hire*** Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11a
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Hang Dog ascent by: Sirus on 2012-03-05 (View Climbing Log)

Worth doing

This route's pretty crimpy. Thought it was just a little bit overrated, but depends on who you talk to. It was still fun. I'll be back for the redpoint.

Added: 2012-12-24

Fantasia Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11a
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Hang Dog ascent by: Sirus on 2012-04-13 (View Climbing Log)

Can't wait to go back

This is possibly my favorite 11 that I've attempted at NJC. The climb is juggy and 5-easy until just the last few bolts, then it's go-time. You feel pretty exposed at the top, so the falls are pretty fun. And - if you're lucky - you may have some bighorn sheep scamper up right next to you and your rope like I did.

Added: 2012-12-24

Quarryman Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.12b
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Second ascent by: Sirus on 2012-10-16 (View Climbing Log)

Will be back!

This is a great route! The bottom crux is maybe 11b or something, but very doable and fun. The rest is pretty mellow until you get slapped by the crux just below the top. I'll be coming back once I'm working on 12's!

Note: Be careful when coming off of the route, as it's too long for most ropes. I have a 70m rope. With that, my partner led up, set up a belay, I followed. He had to rap twice to get down.

Added: 2012-12-24

Wonderstuff Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.10d
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: Sirus on 2012-02-24 (View Climbing Log)

Pretty good

Hadn't done this one since back when I first started climbing. Bottom is easy. The dihedral crack is fun, and gives the option of some more technical work (I was able to do a bit of jamming combined with stemming), or a more pumpy layback.

Added: 2012-12-24

Automatic Static Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11b
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: Sirus on 2012-10-16 (View Climbing Log)

Great extension!

If you can do ground zero, may as well do automatic static. It's a great extension with a couple of mantles. Lots of fun! May get you pumped a bit towards the top if you're an 11 climber. Ground zero at the bottom makes this a sustained route, but with good rests between the two halves.

Added: 2012-12-24

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