Routes : Reviews
billiebob's Logbook (44 ascents)
Climbing Log | Hit List (0)
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Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Southern: La Milagrosa Canyon: Main Wall
Ecstatic Electricity
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11d |
| Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by:
Awesome route
One of the best routes at milagrosa. The crux is very technical and great fun to latch the jug at the end.
Added: 2008-12-21
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: Near Trapps
Transcontinental Nailway
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10b |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Onsight ascent by:
very fun climb
Very happy for my blue alien protecting the crux. I think there was a pin here when I first did it. A classic gunks 5.10
Added: 2008-08-08
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: Near Trapps
Bird Cage
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
easier than it looks
very helpful to have double ropes to get to the chains in 1 pitch. The roof looks like it's going to be impossible, but it goes great.
Added: 2008-08-08
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: Near Trapps
To Have or Have Not
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11d |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Top Rope ascent by:
good climbing and a very hard crux.
A fun route, but I think a fair bit harder than To Be.
Added: 2008-08-08
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: Near Trapps
To Be, Or Not To Be
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11d |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
One of the best 5.11s in the Gunks.
Every time I did this route I considered leading it, then came to my senses. Superb climbing and sustained thin stuff.
Added: 2008-08-08
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: Near Trapps
El Camino
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
hard mantle to an even harder face.
I would hate to lead this. Even if you get the mantle AOK you still have that thin face to climb. *shudder*. Fine moves.
Added: 2008-08-08
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: Near Trapps
Shitface
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Scary lead b.c of the loose block
I got sandbagged into leading this and while it turned out OK, I was not happy at all with having to pull the roof on that huge loose block. Even afterwards that thin seam felt insecure. Good climbing though.
Added: 2008-08-08
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: Near Trapps
Eraserhead
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11d |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
another good toprope
great climbing.
Added: 2008-08-08
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: Near Trapps
Forbidden Zone
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.12a |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
great toproping
The Nears is a great place for 5.11+/12a toproping, and this is a fine tick.
Added: 2008-08-08
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: Near Trapps
Fat City Direct
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
one of the best routes in the gunks.
The bulge of the Direct is great and doesn't detract from the awesomeness of the roof. When I did the climb in 1991 we had no idea the regular route was supposed to traverse left after the big roof. A traverse right led to a huge lichen covered wall. Straight up seemed a little loose but the gear was great and the climbing is maybe 5.9. Most people do it this way, right?
Added: 2008-08-08
