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brandonsequoia's Logbook (22 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 08. West Side Crags: Angel Flight Crags

A Desperate Man Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: brandonsequoia on 2008-02-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sweet Mixed climb!

Corey led, I cleaned...

Added: 2008-02-29

Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 02. The Wooden Ships-The Gullies: West Ship River Face

Phone Call From Satan popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: brandonsequoia on 2008-02-23 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Slabs Suck!

Seconded, because I hate onsighting slabs!

Added: 2008-02-29

Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 02. The Wooden Ships-The Gullies: Honeycomb Wall

Seasonal Affective Disorder Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: brandonsequoia on 2008-02-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Best 5.10 intro lead at Smith!

If you're breaking into leading 10's, do this short route first! Get over the skinny start ledge, as it actually adds to the safety and appeal of this route. Good jugs the whole way up, solid clipping stances, and overhanging enough to make lead falls relatively safe. Also short enough to avoid pumping out from the inevitable first 5.10 lead overgripping!

Added: 2008-02-29

Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 04. The Dihedrals: Left Center

Wedding Day *** Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: brandonsequoia on 2007-10-06 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Top-roped

And I think it's harder than most 5.10b's in the Park. Very balancy, not very positive holds, dicey feet, exposure.... A fun climb, but harder than most 10b's at Smith.

Added: 2007-10-09

Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 05. Christian Brothers East Wall: Combination Blocks

Double Trouble Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: brandonsequoia on 2007-10-06 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Not much trouble...

Super fun climb, very enjoyable lead. The bolts are awesome, so well spaced. In fact, they are a little too close, but it helps when you step off the first block and fall onto the second. I'd probably downgrade this to a 5.9+....

Added: 2007-10-09

Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 08. West Side Crags: Pleasure Palace

Matthew 7:24 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a V2
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: brandonsequoia on 1995-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars An Interesting Story...

My partner dirted me from the crux because I was taking too long, hanging around like a sack of potatoes, or a drowned pig.... So I redpointed it, second try. Very much a boulder problem. Bring a few pads and a few good spotters, and leave the ropes for the surrounding climbs.

Added: 2007-09-29

Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 04. The Dihedrals: Left

Ancylostoma ** Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: brandonsequoia on 2007-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Both Pitches

The second pitch goes at 5.6, well bolted, super slabby, kind of brittle due to few ascents, but a great view, an awesome top-out experience, well worth the effort! We hiked up to Pleasure Palace and climbed a bit before descending through Aggro Gully.

Added: 2007-09-29

Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 21. Northern Point: West Side

Thumper Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: brandonsequoia on 2007-09-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Most Recent of Several Ascents

I freaking LOVE this climb!! A great crack climb!! A little bit of everything on this one... Sit Start, lie-back, stem, hand jam, finger seam, crimpy face holds, a bit of balancy foot work, .... My only complaint is that it's not longer!!

Added: 2007-09-29

Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 21. Northern Point: West Side

Sartin R&B Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: brandonsequoia on 2007-09-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Full Valued and Balancy

I attempted this climb on top-rope about a year ago and was blown off 20 feet up. The balancy, awkward moves and over vertical angle make it a real challenge. I was tempted to lead it on Thursday, since my climbing has improved markedly in the last year, but in the end decided to check it out on top-rope first. I'll be leading it next week, for sure! I'd call it a 10b, but a very fun one!

Added: 2007-09-29

Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 03. Morning Glory Wall Area: The Peanut

Pop Goes the Nubbin ** Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: brandonsequoia on 2006-10-13 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Like Butter...

Not! The peanut is one of the least enjoyable features at Smith Rock, in my opinion. A very knobby slab whose finish is no more rewarding than it is difficult.

Added: 2007-09-29

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