climballnight's Logbook (168 ascents)

climbed it in guide tennies. can be TR'd as well if you lead up to the bolts via Space Case.

pass the bolt and follow the crack up and left to about the bush, then veer up and right, over/around the shelf and continue up to the bolts/rings. use long runners accordingly. from here either set a directional (small nut above the roof) for others to TR the 5.7, or directly TR the 5.8/9 directly below. the slings others had used as an anchor below the shelf looked dicey to me.

2nd pitch chimney section is well protected with the bolt, a #4 and a #5 cam. I brought a 6" too and made use of it at the exit of the chimney. The slightly awkward moves just above/after exiting the chimney were for us the crux of the climb. The dihedral was super fun with great protection and easy stances every 5 ft for placing pro. Though I had triples of some cams, doubles in the 3/4"-1.5" range were plenty. Great bolted anchor at the top of the second pitch. (we belayed from a trad anchor in the shade of the chimney at the top of the first pitch). If running 3 and 4 together, avoid the Pitch 3 anchor bolts altogether to reduce rope drag.

it's been a couple years, and it seemed harder than I remembered it. Hmmm....

Could use an additional cam or bolt between the 1st and 2nd bolts.

was able to clip the first bolt before starting, making the crux (1st 2 moves) well protected. deck potential while clipping second bolt though. easy climb from there on up. shares last bolt and anchor with Rawhide to the left.

crux is at 1st 2 bolts, followed by a nice resting period before a couple more wake-up moves at the top.

the first few moves off the deck are 5.6+ and with a little wandering side to side the last couple moves at the top are probably 5.6 as well... fun easily protectable trad route for new leaders. Shares top anchor with Smokin The Rock to the right.

Estimated 5.10a but felt like a 5.10b on lead cause some of the moves would have had hard falls landing a flat ledge. didn't fall so i dont know for sure.

Took a friend of mine up this on his 1st multipitch. Fun climb... breaks some of the rules though, such as touching or climbing on trees. It does climb a tree, which is fun and yet a weird feeling to be doing wearing rock gear, look out for the red ants though, you will probably wake them as you tromp up their home. The rest of the way to lunch ledge is easy, fun, and straight forward. Used the 5.6finger crack to the top.

Midway up P1 there's a ramp that shoots off left to something else... don't take it. Stay heading up. For the long P2 apparantly there is a traditional route which stays under all but one of the arches to just a few feet past the apex making belay there, and a more popular route (easier) which traverses below the top arch and cuts up over it just before the apex. Contrary to the parties ahead of us, we went for the original route which made for some really fun 5.8ish underclings on friction for feet. Protection was ~10ft apart at the top of the arch leading to some pretty good swing potential for the followers (there may have been a couple spots to shorten swing potential using ball nuts or mini's if you really want and have the gear). P3 to lunch ledge from here was 5.6-. P4 used the 5.6finger crack.