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clr288's Logbook (202 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: California: Los Angeles County: Malibu Creek State Park: Planet of the Apes Wall

Monkey Sang, Monkey Do popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: clr288 on 2014-04-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Monkey Sang, Monkey Done! new

Tried this off and on through the years. Finally got it! Awesome route. Hand sequence is critical to setting up the roof crux. Aim to get the right hand in the last good pocket before the crux and then left hand crimp, right hand on the polished small block and lunge out for the right edge of the roof. Crack/flake crux above is made easier by shifting your weight to the right of the crack. Some loose critical holds...

Added: 2014-04-15

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Slander Sector

Babyface Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clr288 on 2014-03-30 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Tough stretchy start

First 3-4 bolts are tough. Holds are sparse and long between them. Feet arent great in the crux area. Top half is 5.8 climbing.


Added: 2014-03-30

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Right of the Roof

Power Play Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clr288 on 2014-03-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Not a 10d

Guide has this as a 10b. About right at that. Crux is moving from 1st through the 3rd bolts. Interesting movement throughout, even in the easier stuff above. Can be chossy...there is an X-'ed foot hold near the top.

Added: 2014-03-30

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Right of the Roof

Whammy popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clr288 on 2014-03-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Mid climb crux

Crux is mid way...two small edge crimps, high feet and go up for a hold pretty high above you. More fun that Minimizer IMHO.

Added: 2014-03-30

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Right of the Roof

Minimizer Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: clr288 on 2014-03-30 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Harder than Whammy

Thought this was much harder than Whammy. Fun, more balancey and technical movement.

Added: 2014-03-30

Routes: North America: United States: California: Los Angeles County: Echo Cliffs: Chocolate Wall

Death by Chocolate Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: clr288 on 2014-03-30 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Sketch fun

If 5.10d is pushing your grade, considering stick clipping the 1st bolt. And maybe the 2nd! bolt also as the rock between bolts 1 & 2 is very sketchy and the 2nd bolt clipping hold is an epoxied bulge that is gonna blow sooner than later. 5.10d moves up to the 2nd bolt and then sustained pumpy 5.10c for the rest. Rock gets better above the 3rd bolt. Lots of great feet throughout.

Added: 2014-03-30

Routes: North America: United States: California: Los Angeles County: Malibu Creek State Park: The Ghetto Wall

Cut the Cord Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clr288 on 2014-03-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good ride

This is a better one on this wall. Some balance and technique is needed as you sprawl across the mid section, ending with a powerful few moves over a small roof and to the chains. No great holds to clip the chains to (at least if you want your hands equal to or above the chains).

Added: 2014-03-05

Routes: North America: United States: California: Los Angeles County: Malibu Creek State Park: The Ghetto Wall

Carnal Corner Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: clr288 on 2014-03-01 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Not a fan

Blah climbing until you go from the last bolt to the anchors. Really a one move wonder and it is a height dependent stretch move. Not worth doing again.

Added: 2014-03-05

Routes: North America: United States: California: Los Angeles County: Malibu Creek State Park: The Ghetto Wall

Johnny Can't Lead popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: clr288 on 2014-03-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun

No move is more difficult than any move on Rolling Blackout or Mr Big and actually the toughest moves on Delicious and Rolling Blackout might be harder. This is more sustained than all of those but Delicious. Critical hold along the flake on the upper extension may bust. Top out would be much harder with out this...

Added: 2014-03-05

Routes: North America: United States: California: Los Angeles County: Malibu Creek State Park: The Ghetto Wall

Urban Sprawl Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: clr288 on 2014-03-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Decent

Liked this better than Katmandu...a bit run out to the first bolt if you start like in the book to the right of the main line. Some interesting/awkward clips.

Added: 2014-03-05

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