csanich's Logbook (45 ascents)

Haven't climbed in a year and a half. Once again, this was a great route to get back into it. With multiple hold options it's nice to be able to make a harder move choice or an easier move choice (if tired). There is lots of loose rock around the climb, which makes the hike sketchy, but none of the holds on the climb seem loose.

Not real hard on top rope. Didn't want to lead anything, since haven't been climbing for a long time. But if I had been climbing for a while again, I think I could lead this. Didn't notice if there was enough protection.
Setting up top rope was time consuming, but doable.

I think getting to the first bolt may be a little scary for a 5.7 climber to lead. I think after getting to the first bolt it's probably a 5.6 climb. The climb was fairly easy, but fun. It was nice to have holds on granite. The finish is unbolted but easy climbing. At the top there is one hanger on a bolt, the other bolt is missing its hanger. There is a bolder to sling but it's pretty far back, take a lot of slings, or you can place a stopper in a crack up there and use less sling, or do both for safety. You could scramble up to top rope.

The granite I'm use to climbing doesn't have holds like this. It was real fun. The start is tricky but made it exciting; it's probably the only 5.9 part of the climb. After the start it's probably a 5.7b climb. At the top there is one hanger on a bolt, the other bolt that's missing its hanger. There is a bolder to sling but it's pretty far back, take a lot of slings, or you can place a stopper in a crack up there and use less sling, or do both for safety. We top roped it after climbing Brown Sugar. You could scramble up to top rope.

Fingers were pretty sore by the time we got to this route, which made the start more challenging than necessary. Gets easier after start. At the top there is one hanger on a bolt, the other bolt that's missing its hanger. There is a bolder to sling but it's pretty far back, take a lot of slings, or you can place a stopper in a crack up there and use less sling, or do both for safety. We top roped it after climbing Brown Sugar. You could scramble up to top rope.

The very bottom and the very top are tough 5.7. I would say the crux is right before the 1st bolt and this has to be a 5.8 move. We may be making it tougher than it should be by being too far right. But granite ratings seem to be tougher. Since the first bolt is high, and like I said the crux is right before it, at my level I wouldn't try to lead this (usually lead 5.8 and top rope 5.9). I would warn people who normally lead 5.7 that this one is dangerous as a sport climb lead.
The bottom face is thin, so really need to trust feet, and fingers will get ripped up. More work than fun. I did enjoy getting over the little roof.
I did this a year ago and again today, and both times I've fallen just before the fist bolt. I'd like to get this clean.
Haven't climbed granite in a while and it sure it tougher when you aren't use to it.

First bolt is high - need a spot and a strong second move. There are probably only a couple 5.7 moves, second move off the ground and right after first bolt if you go straight up. The rest is pretty easy, but I don't mind some big holds on granite when my fingers are sore. I had fun leading this. It was challenging enough with the light protection to make it exciting, but easy enough to be okay with the light protection. View from the top is great. It was a warm day, so it was nice to have the shade (first half of the day).

We were tired and had this top roped from my lead, so I did it again just to get another climb in. There are a few places you can try to make moves harder, so I did that.

The crux of this has been challenging before. Today the whole thing seemed easy. Watched my feet placement more.

I rate it a PG13 because I've had big rocks break off before, not because of lack of protection.

This route has seemed pretty sustained before. Today there only seemed like one 5.8 move and the rest was easy. Always messes with your mind a little bit because of loose rock. Only rate it a PG13 becuase of loose rock, not because of protection; it's way (over) protected.