Routes : Reviews
csanich's Logbook (45 ascents)
Climbing Log | Hit List (8)
|
|
||||
Comments: Show | Hide
Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Camelback Mountain: Headwall
Sleazy Street
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Cake walk today
Easy end of the day climb. Probably won't do this again, unless with a new climber.
Added: 2009-09-25
Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Lookout Mountain: Dead Dobie Wall
Unknown
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Fun getting back on the wall
Haven't climbed all summer, b/c too busy (shame on us). So, this was a great route to get back on lead. It's pretty sustained 5.7, with multiple line options. There are new hangers at the top with chains (old shuts are loose and rusty).
Added: 2009-09-11
Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Lookout Mountain: Dead Dobie Wall
Totally Trad
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
Challenging in spots
This route had some really easy (almost scramble moments) but I needed those breaks for a couple tough parts. The crux is a bulge at the top (by which time I was pretty pumped). I could lead most 5.8's, but this doesn't have enough protection for me, with the tough spots it has.
Added: 2009-09-11
Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Pinnacle Peak: Y- Crack Boulder
turtle piss
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Back on the granite
The start feels like a 5.7, but that could be because I haven't been on this thin granite for a while. It was a good warm up. The first bolt is a little high.
We were on the rock by 7:30 and 90% of the route was already in the sun.
We were on the rock by 7:30 and 90% of the route was already in the sun.
Added: 2009-05-08
Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Pinnacle Peak: Y- Crack Boulder
Corona Club
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Top Rope ascent by:
Not today
We top roped this after climbing Turtle Piss. I've grunted, hang doged, sweated, and bled my way up a 5.9 on the P.P. granite before, but today I couldn't finish this one. The first half is super thin. A 5.9 on granite is harder than a 5.9 pocket climb (for me).
Added: 2009-05-08
Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Pinnacle Peak: Y- Crack Boulder
Jam on Jam
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.5 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
I must not know crack
This felt like the biggest mis-rate of my entire rock climbing career. I struggled up this climb like it was a 5.8-5.9. I don't climb cracks a whole lot, so maybe this would be cake for a good crack climber, so I'm not going to rate it up. Jam on Jam is a totally appropriate name. I climbed it without falls, but I used leg bars, arm bars, foot jams, hand jams, lay backs, anything I could. It was kind of fun, if you like pain (and my friends couldn't send it :)
We used our top rope from Turtle piss, which made for quite an angle on the belay rope; there are no anchors right at the top of this route.
We used our top rope from Turtle piss, which made for quite an angle on the belay rope; there are no anchors right at the top of this route.
Added: 2009-05-08
Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Camelback Mountain: Headwall
Rain of Terror
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Hang Dog ascent by:
Pride caused the fall
Super well bolted (only give it a PG13 because of loose rocks). The hangers at the top are rusty, but the bolts are new. I'd recommend like 15' slings for the top anchors to prevent drag.
Most of this route felt like a 5.7 today. And so I was trying to make moves harder and at the crux that proved to be a mistake. The crux has a couple 5.9 moves, which is about the limit of my ability, but I was still goofing around trying to make the moves harder and I fell. So much for a clean ascent. It was fun.
Last time I climbed this a huge foothold fell out, so I wasn't trusting my feet like I should this time.
Most of this route felt like a 5.7 today. And so I was trying to make moves harder and at the crux that proved to be a mistake. The crux has a couple 5.9 moves, which is about the limit of my ability, but I was still goofing around trying to make the moves harder and I fell. So much for a clean ascent. It was fun.
Last time I climbed this a huge foothold fell out, so I wasn't trusting my feet like I should this time.
Added: 2009-04-24
Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Camelback Mountain: Headwall
Donamatrix
popular
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Flash ascent by:
Fun
We did both pitches today. I'm not sure it's worth the hassle of doing the second pitch, since you have to belay from an uncomfortable ledge to bring the second up the first pitch, and all the rope handling. Plus, the second pitch is short and easier.
I still really like the first pitch though. It's high and sustained, lots of hold options.
I'd suggest using 15' slings to set up the top anchor if you don't want rope drag.
Wear your brain bucket on belay from below.
I still really like the first pitch though. It's high and sustained, lots of hold options.
I'd suggest using 15' slings to set up the top anchor if you don't want rope drag.
Wear your brain bucket on belay from below.
Added: 2009-04-24
Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: Pond area
Dead Pool
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Really fun, superb scene
I wish I would have lead this instead of topping it from Safe Pool. The start looked way harder than it was, and I just wasn't on my game today. I will lead it next time. But no bother because it's just an amazing place to be, right above the pond. This climb was SUPER fun, lots of options, pretty sustained. There must be new bolts, because this was bolted really well. Just be careful not to pull your rope through into the water.
Added: 2009-03-20
Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: Pond area
Safe Pool
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
As or more difficult than Dead Pool
My book and map call this a 5.7. It felt more like a 5.8, at least on lead, because it's so sustained. There are a couple moves toward the bottom that if you don't make them quickly you can get really pumped out, but it's relatively thin so moving quickly isn't easy. My buddy, who this should be well within his ability had to come down after 1/2 because he was too pumped out. I could have finished without my one rest hang, but I was pretty pumped out half way up and didn't know when a rest was coming and wanted to be safe on lead.
Added: 2009-03-20
