deanlords's Logbook (8 ascents)

This route offered four of the best alpine pitches i've ever climbed in the mountains of Idaho. The exit pitch onto the ridge was your typical Canadian Rockies or Alaskan exit scare fest, but it's doable. The route protected well in the condition we found it in. Future ascents could find thicker ice making it a wee bit easier, and thinner conditions would up the seriousness a couple of grades!

Abe Dickerson, Eli Watkins, and I climbed the three ice routes in November of '04. At that time the name "The Full Monte" (WI 4+) was given to the left most route, "Monte Python" ( WI5+) for the middle route, and "Monte Carlo" (WI 4 mixed) for the right route. The difficulty of the routes will greatly depend on the time of the season as i have seen them in much leaner conditions in years past. It appears that Jason Cronk and his partner found more and better ice than what we had found the year prior. Congrats to them for giving them a go. We rappelled from V-threads. These names reflect information i've gathered that the late Duane Monte had explored these routes in the late 80's or early 90's. Although i have no verification that he ascended any of the three routes, we felt it appropriate to apply his name to these routes. Duane has left an elusive and impressive history with his accomplishments in Idaho.

The TMMR is one of the best modern mixed alpine routes in Idaho. Quality climbing, good rock, fun ice runnels. What more could you ask for!

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Hells Bells is a great introduction to this type of mixed alpine climbing. Takes specific spring conditions for this route to form. But when in condition, Hells Bells provides an enjoyable day in the mountains. Be prepared for delicate climbing on thin ice!

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This is a very commiting and long route. Many of the rock pitches are on less than desirable rock with protection difficult to obtain. The sections of mixed climbing are demanding and exciting. Be prepared for a long physically and mentally challenging day out.

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