Skip to Content

Routes : Reviews

ematter's Logbook (175 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (0)



Show: Sort by: Display:

Comments:  Show | Hide

> >|

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: House of Pain Buttress

Bastard in the Brothel Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: ematter on 2014-07-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Bastard in a Brothel

Pretty fun route, don't know why it took me so long to get on this. Kinda tricky beta at the top. I kept thinking, "I'm not sure that's it, but I don't see anything else..." After confirmation from my belayer that that indeed was the move I bucked up and did it (kind of reachy, I did a deadpoint) and went on to clip the chains. Fun juggy traverse in the middle.

Added: 2014-07-06

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Dead Cats Annex

El Primero Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ematter on 2014-04-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars El Primero

Good warm up. Climb up to the cave like thing and head left to the anchors.

Added: 2014-04-30

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Tit For Tom

Curious George Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2014-04-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars This deserves more traffic

Probably the best traverse at Reimers. The guidebook says 12b and I'd probably agree. It's definitely a notch harder than Her Majesty's traverse at Prototype wall and the pump hits you like a wall. I counted and my friend and I make about 50 moves throughout the route.

Belay on the ledge by the 1st bolt. It is easiest to climb up on the far left side of the ledge and walk over to the right side past the boulder. Stick clip the first bolt or two that are on the actual climb (2&3). Best for the belayer to be on the 1st bolt until the climber gets through the first 5 bolts or so. Chains at the anchors.

Added: 2014-04-30

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Serpent Wall

Sidewinder Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ematter on 2014-01-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sidewinder

This is a fun one to add to the warm-up routine or for a new project. Good combination of crimps and jugs. A bit awkward to get off the deck.

Added: 2014-04-30

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Serpent Wall

Antivenin Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ematter on 2014-04-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Antivenim

Another fun warmup. The start is a bit easier to get off the deck than Moroccan Snake Charmer and Sidewinder.

Added: 2014-04-30

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Prototype Wall

Her Majesty's Secret Traverse Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: ematter on 2014-04-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun Traverse

Another fun traverse. Definitely feels like its own route even though it starts the same as Bongo Fury. Pumpy crimps to a juggy finish.

Added: 2014-04-30

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Tit For Tom

Nobody's Hero Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2014-04-19 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars This route isn't anybody's hero...

My friend and I were looking for a change of pace from our normal routes and we did a bit of exploring. Probably the most bushwhacking I've ever done to climb a route at Reimers. Belay is up some rocks amidst trees and stuff. Lots of maiden's hair in the way so the climber has to go down and around and up some rocks and step in plants, etc. For the shorter, the bottom felt kind of tough and bolt 2 is kind of high since you're above this boulder/bulge thing at the start. Probably harder for shorter people. After you clip 2 its pretty easy to the top. No lower offs at the top. This route was more trouble than it was worth, but it served it's purpose as a change of pace...

Added: 2014-04-20

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Sex Canyon

No Recess Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2014-01-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars No Recess

Someone asked me if this route felt like no recess. I'm not really sure what no recess feels like... Anyway, the route is pretty powerful. It seems many peoples struggle around the 3rd clip (bolt right over the edge of the roof). Mainly it is figuring out what you want to do with the tufa, how to make the clip, and how to get to the big sidepull out right (I drop the right knee hard and use 2 tufas under the roof to bump out to the sidepull, others just throw hard with feet centered and left). For some, it can be cruxy to get to the next (4th clip) from there but the climbing eases somewhat. Get to a good ledge and you hit this thin section that kicks back positively - not overhung. It's kind of weird, maybe a bit awkward, and then you get to some good holds at the chains. I think almost everyone I've seen does the bottom tufa section differently. I'm pretty sure it's height dependent. Pretty good route, overshadowed by Learning to Crawl at the same grade. I'm not sure one is much harder than the other. NR might be more powerful but it's shorter with really only one low crux rather than the high and low crux of LTC.

Watch the tree behind you when you fall. So far I haven't seen any encounters.

Added: 2014-01-12

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: North Shore: Cheech & Chong Wall

Some Crimes Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-09-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Some Crimes

Got the pleasure of learning how to bolt on this route with John.

As per the route, slightly powerful opening sequence for the short in stature then a slightly tricky move past the cave to fun balancy stuff to the anchors. I remember doing something very similar to John's mentioned beta for the crux so I don't think that move (with the foot in the cave) is very height dependent. Pretty fun move too. The most height dependent part was likely the opening move.

Don't remember grading well, but at the time thought mid 10. For now, I'll say 10c until I get on it again.

Added: 2013-11-04

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Sex Canyon

Telegraph Road Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-11-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Telegraph Road

Don't climb in the canyon much besides Learning to Crawl. Lots of those 11s are pretty sharp. It was pretty cold this morning and the route was in the shade; my hands got cold but friction was good so the top wasn't as pumpy as per the summer when I first got on this route. Fun route, I didn't clip the last bolt as I was at the anchors by then. I was told that the anchors used to be higher so the last bolt was more useful then. This route is likely easier for shorter people because the feet aren't as high if you're shorter.

Added: 2013-11-03

> >|