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ematter's Logbook (221 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Enchanted Rock State Park: The Frog

Megabyte Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2015-03-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good route - a bit run out

Awesome, super technical face climbing. More powerful, sustained, and tiny hand holds than Tonka or Velvet. I guess that's why it's rated 12b. Crazy start beta to technical face that doesn't let up much. Not so sure about the bolting... Decent run out from bolt 2 to 3 (though compared to 3-4 it doesn't feel bad). Large run out from 3 to 4, though the terrain lets up somewhat. I led this once, don't intend on doing it again. It feels pretty significant, especially for the size of the boulder. Not sure you'd deck (if you have a good belayer) but don't want to find out. Besides the bolting, it s a very fun, sustained route. Once you pass the overlap it's easy climbing to the top.

Added: 2015-03-18

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Enchanted Rock State Park: Cave-In Area

Missing Link Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2015-03-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Deserves more attention, but don't polish up the feet...

Really cool climb - kind of a 1 crux wonder of a few moves getting in/out of the crux. Nice that there is a well placed bolt at the un-protectable crux. Top crack isn't too bad once you're in it (crux ends once you're in the upper crack) upper crack section is like 5.10-. TR sent this 2nd go, then sent on lead the next time I was out. Protects well with small/medium size cams and I slotted a good nut down before the bolt. Placed two solid pieces before the moderate run out to the top. Small polished feet/smears will make this climb more difficult as time progresses. Not sure it felt 12a - kinda like shocker but easier.

Added: 2015-03-18

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Crankenstein Wall

Short Term Memory Loss Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2015-03-14 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Started this from the boulder...

Well, I didn't start this from the ground but rather the wife boulder start. Climbed this on a day crank was soaking but this was fairly dry. Several people climbed it and we didn't know what it was or rated but guessed 11c (off the boulder). Will need to try a ground start, but perhaps crux is up top and didn't change the grade. A bit spacious to bolt 3 but likely wont fall. Pretty good route, but some holds are kind of pokey. Reminds me of Stranglehold but a number grade easier.

Added: 2015-03-18

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Enchanted Rock State Park: Little Dome-Kingdom of Zilch

Scrambled Egg Sandwich Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2015-01-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sweet climb for small hands

Tight hands, so my hands fit well... Committing start off the deck. To clean this is probably best with a 2nd, but I ended up placing a lot of my gear where he wanted his hands... It can be hard getting back on route if you second and fall off.

Added: 2015-03-18

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Enchanted Rock State Park: Little Dome-Kingdom of Zilch

Road to Nowhere Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2015-01-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun stuff

Fun face route - decent clipping stances.

Added: 2015-03-18

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Enchanted Rock State Park: The Frog

Velvet Elvis Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2015-01-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome moves

Surprised myself by almost onsighting on tr. Settled with sending the next go. This is one of the better bolted lines in terms of spacing, not quality of gear. Doesn't feel as run-out as tonka or megabyte. Really cool high step moves off the deck.

Added: 2015-03-18

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Enchanted Rock State Park: The Frog

Tonka Toys From Hell Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2015-01-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome, once you get the start

Haven't fallen off the start yet, but probably will now - it's quite tricky for the grade. Thin and polished start leads to spacious bolting but easier climbing. You can place gear in the overlap.

Added: 2015-03-18

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Enchanted Rock State Park: Buzzards Roost-E. face

Texas Crude Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: ematter on 2014-11-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Cleaning

Sent cleaning - pumpy, wide hands.

Added: 2015-03-18

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Enchanted Rock State Park: Buzzards Roost-SE face

La Realidad Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2014-11-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun little face climb

Fun, balancy and delicate route. Grade seems a bit soft compared to some other face routes. Still, lots of small hands and feet. Be careful on lead because the landing isn't great if you blow clip 2 (and I've seen several people pop off there).

Added: 2014-11-23

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Enchanted Rock State Park: Little Dome-Kingdom of Zilch

The Far Side Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2014-11-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Exciting lead

That first step can be the hardest... Get on to the face and you're already 30 feet up or so. On one bolt, and if you fall you and your belayer will be hanging up above the chasm... Definitely stick the 1st bolt or rap down and hang it. Fall might be awkward if you fall before the 2nd, since the belayer has to stand back. Just be mindful of the rope and your legs. All of the falls should safe but I didn't try any of them out, nor do I want to. Route is a lot of fun and a bit heady. One of the better face routes I've been on. Just be mindful of the rope and have a good belayer.

Added: 2014-11-03

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