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ematter's Logbook (168 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Sex Canyon

No Recess Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2014-01-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars No Recess

Someone asked me if this route felt like no recess. I'm not really sure what no recess feels like... Anyway, the route is pretty powerful. It seems many peoples struggle around the 3rd clip (bolt right over the edge of the roof). Mainly it is figuring out what you want to do with the tufa, how to make the clip, and how to get to the big sidepull out right (I drop the right knee hard and use 2 tufas under the roof to bump out to the sidepull, others just throw hard with feet centered and left). For some, it can be cruxy to get to the next (4th clip) from there but the climbing eases somewhat. Get to a good ledge and you hit this thin section that kicks back positively - not overhung. It's kind of weird, maybe a bit awkward, and then you get to some good holds at the chains. I think almost everyone I've seen does the bottom tufa section differently. I'm pretty sure it's height dependent. Pretty good route, overshadowed by Learning to Crawl at the same grade. I'm not sure one is much harder than the other. NR might be more powerful but it's shorter with really only one low crux rather than the high and low crux of LTC.

Watch the tree behind you when you fall. So far I haven't seen any encounters.

Added: 2014-01-12

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: North Shore: Cheech & Chong Wall

Some Crimes Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-09-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Some Crimes

Got the pleasure of learning how to bolt on this route with John.

As per the route, slightly powerful opening sequence for the short in stature then a slightly tricky move past the cave to fun balancy stuff to the anchors. I remember doing something very similar to John's mentioned beta for the crux so I don't think that move (with the foot in the cave) is very height dependent. Pretty fun move too. The most height dependent part was likely the opening move.

Don't remember grading well, but at the time thought mid 10. For now, I'll say 10c until I get on it again.

Added: 2013-11-04

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Sex Canyon

Telegraph Road Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-11-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Telegraph Road

Don't climb in the canyon much besides Learning to Crawl. Lots of those 11s are pretty sharp. It was pretty cold this morning and the route was in the shade; my hands got cold but friction was good so the top wasn't as pumpy as per the summer when I first got on this route. Fun route, I didn't clip the last bolt as I was at the anchors by then. I was told that the anchors used to be higher so the last bolt was more useful then. This route is likely easier for shorter people because the feet aren't as high if you're shorter.

Added: 2013-11-03

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Prototype Wall

Bongo Fury Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: ematter on 2013-11-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Bongo Fury

I first tried to flash this a few weeks ago and have to say I underestimated it a bit. It's quite beta intensive and very tricky if you don't do it right. It also feels a bit intimidating on lead and I feel like that held me back a bit. Have to admit I felt sketched and lowered off the anchors not really liking the route. I worked the beta on TR and then sent next session on TR. It is much more enjoyable now. Seems to be one of those routes most people lead once and then TR the rest of the times. Going to have to lead this soon though, it's fun.

Added: 2013-11-03

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: North Shore: Mossy Wall

Beyond All Likelihood Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-10-23 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Beyond All Likelihood

Finally got on this one. I admit I pretty much saved it for last (of all the mossy routes) because I didn't think it looked that great. I mean, the bolter gave it only 2 stars after all... But I'd have to say it was better than I thought. Beta and route felt a bit awkward at first but I figured things out.

Guidebook talks about a lower and an upper path. Have to admit I couldn't figure out the lower path and did the upper one. Felt harder than Katrina and 28 Year Engagement (neighboring 11d's) so I was thinking possibly 12a. I had heard someone say possibly 12b but I don't think so. Doesn't feel as hard as Ghost to me, but some spots are tricky and feet disappear so it can get pumpy. Not sure if comparing it to body wax (per below comment) is really the best comparison as the routes are in such different styles...but for me it was easier.

Pretty interesting, better-than-I-expected route.
The upper route that I took, I don't think it would be too hard to second since I'm level with the bolts, but with the lower path I could see it being harder since the bolts are now higher above you.

27-OCT-13: I got on this again and sent it, redpoint. Thinking it might be more of a hard 11d now. The crux really only falls to this one section and it doesn't seem as powerful or precise anymore (probably due to refining the beta). Then pump management, but I don't think that adds to the grade in this case. Beta intensive and sharp, but doesn't seem to require as much as other 12a's in the park. More consensus will tell.

Added: 2013-10-23

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Sex Cave

Body Wax Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-10-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Body Wax

Fun, short, bouldery route that's really not my style but still fun. Regarding the safety rating, just have a good belayer and don't blow the clips and you'll be fine. A friend gave me some excellent short person beta that I really like. It likely makes it a bit harder but it fits me better.

I didn't get the top-out because it was soaking wet.

2 Nov 13: Sent with the top-out. It was still wet and the right hand felt like sticking your fingers in a bowl of pudding but I wasn't as pumped as the time before and was able to get to the cave to find a huge snake skin in there. Kind of cool but kind of gross (the snake skin and the pudding hold I suppose).

Added: 2013-10-20

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Sex Canyon

Learning to Crawl Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-10-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Finally Learned to Crawl

This is quite a fun route. One of my longer projects to date, this one took me a while. I 2-fell for a month, then 1-fell for a month, all while sending 4 other comparable grade projects in between. I think it was a matter of fine tuning all the details and gathering enough endurance combined with the right conditions to allow for the first send. Plan to get on this one again.

Added: 2013-10-20

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Prototype Wall

Demasiadas Cervezas Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-10-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Demasiadas Cervezas

First off, I can't believe this route has only 3 bolts! It has a pretty substantial run-out. Options include running it out, extending bolt 3 with long runner to cut run-out to normal bolt spacing, or clip bolt 4? of Mas Cerveza with a long draw (will be slightly off route to right but better than decking).

Besides that, fun route! I like this one - it fits my style really well. The bottom is so-so. Kind of neat movement in a sea of good holds mixed with bad. Feels a bit airy to bolt 2. Some say the crack is off, but it feels kind of silly and contrived to not use it for a few bottom moves. It's not the crux and then you can rest all day so grade wise probably doesn't matter which way you start. It would be hard to use the whole crack on lead anyway, as the bolt line and the natural line lead you right. I could see temptation to use more of the crack on TR. I ended up using it for just a couple hand movements before moving onto the face.

Then comes the fun part (I put a double shoulder length runner on bolt 3 to protect this section). Besides the bolt spacing, the climb is thin and you're on your feet. Just the stuff I like. Crimps lead to the crux at top. I went straight through the bolt-line up top on crimps to mediocre pockets to difficult pocket to top. Fun top that I have seen stump many people but came very natural to me. I like the movement up top and think going direct to the anchors is quite a nice set of moves. Crux seems to revolve around 1 hold which makes it a bit hard to grade. Like Mas Cerveza, the clip stance is also a bit difficult.

It's very easy to set up a TR from Mas Cerveza. No sport clips.

Note: a reviewer wrote that this route finishes Mas Cerveza - that's not correct (though it could have been at the time? that sounds fun though and I might have to try it). Demasidas Cervezas is its complete own line with a much harder finish. Perhaps the gigantic run-out (I'm only slightly exaggerating) made him miss the last bolt and get sucked over onto mas where there are actually bolts.

Added: 2013-10-20

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Prototype Wall

Mas Cervesa Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-10-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Mas Cerveza

Fun route. I like the top of this one, nice and thin and on your feet!
Feels mildly run-out to the anchors, especially because the clipping holds aren't great and the feet thin out.

Added: 2013-10-20

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Dr. Seuss Wall

Grinch Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-10-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Grinch

I like this route but it doesn't seem to get that much traffic. It's pretty thin but not too bad to bolt 3, then you get to the crux. It took me quite a few tries of bailing from the 3rd bolt before I figured out what I needed to do.

Once I finally figured out my beta I only had to work it a few times and then I sent. The longest part was just figuring out what beta I needed to use. I talked to a few other people and they all seemed to do it slightly differently - Nobody I talked to did it the way I ended up doing it. The route is very bouldery.

Added: 2013-10-13

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