Routes : Reviews
fubar's Logbook (78 ascents)
Climbing Log | Hit List (25)
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Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Needles: The Sorcerer
Ice Pirates Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2009-07-22
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Must-do
This route is awesome. I think the bolt is, technically, to protect a traverse back to Thin Ice (which explains why it's so far to the right). I put a long runner on it and was glad to have the peace of mind, but the gear at that point is really good, too. You will take a long but safe fall if you come off at the top. There are two methods at the anchors: step high (balancey and graceful) or go low (thuggish and ugly).
Added: 2009-12-22
Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Tahquitz Rock: Northwest Recess
Edgehogs Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10d |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2009-09-10
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Great Line, Bob!
Fantastic climbing all the way. A tricky sequence off the first belay was the crux for me, but it's fairly continuous. Check out the shoddy and sparsely placed bolts on Magical Mystery Tour to your left, or better yet, give it a go on TR when you rap.
Added: 2009-12-16
Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Tahquitz Rock: South Face Area
The Bookend Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2009-09-16
(View Climbing Log)
Crimpy + Sunny
Wait for a cold or cool day to do this one. Slightly contrived, but well worth a shot; unlike most Tahquitz face climbs, it's steep and powerful.
Added: 2009-12-16
Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Outback: Rock Hudson
Doing That Scrapyard Thing Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10d |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2009-12-15
(View Climbing Log)
Worth a burn
best part of the climb is the killer hand to finger crack at the top. To get off, do a second pitch around to the rap anchors for the 10c face climb on Rock Hudson. Annoying, but typical Josh.
Added: 2009-12-15
Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Roadside Rocks: Dihedral Rock
Coarse and Buggy Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2009-11-21
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Little bit of everything
My new favorite climb in JT. Takes bomber gear the whole way; only challenge is not running out!
Added: 2009-12-15
Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Outback: Rock Hudson
Hot Rocks Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.11c |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2009-11-21
(View Climbing Log)
Jam or Lieback?
It's up to you...do you trust that friction? Well, do you?
Apparently the first free ascent of this line was John Long and John Bachar on toprope. The second was Bachar, solo.
Apparently the first free ascent of this line was John Long and John Bachar on toprope. The second was Bachar, solo.
Added: 2009-12-15
Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Sheep Pass: Hall of Horrors
Cactus Flower Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2009-11-22
(View Climbing Log)
No Gear Necessary
Just five draws; three for the climb and two for the top. There is a pod up high that would take a #1 camalot, but if you haven't fallen by then, you're not going to, are you?
Added: 2009-12-15
Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Needles: The Warlock
Sea of Tranquility Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2009-09-16
(View Climbing Log)
Forgot my drill...
Anchors/bolts on pitches 3-5 are less than pristine. There was also a lot of detritus on and near the route, including a rope bag left at the top of the 4th pitch. Anyone?
Added: 2009-09-16
Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Queen Mountain: Upper Walt
Crack Queen Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2009-01-25
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Worst rock in QM
Though the look of this crack is impressive, I don't know that any amount of traffic will clean it up. There are a couple of rotten pods, some dirt down low, and intermittent guano. The scenery, however, is great. Save a #3 for the top.
Added: 2009-01-26
Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Needles: Sorcerer's Apprentice
Broomsticks Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | R |
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Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2003-07-28
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Brilliant, heady climb
My favorite memory of the Needles is tossing a rope down from the top of Love Potion to someone who had lost his nerve at the crux of this climb. He promptly went to go top rope Pyromania--freakin sport climbers!
Added: 2008-07-28