fubar's Logbook (78 ascents)

Stays rather dry--protected by a hug roof. A bolted 12a face to the left is also worth doing, as long as you're there.

A measure of how photogenic this route is--you're expected to bring your own entourage. The real question on the roof is whether to use the heel-cam (and risk breaking your ankle if you peel off) or campus it. My advice is to make sure your photographer's in place and go with the campus. I didn't place in the roof--there was a nut left in there, so I figured it had held a fall and was good. Wrong: the next day my buddy pitched off the lip and tore it out, landing below his belaying and necessitating a painful hike back to camp on two gimpy ankles. Also, as long as your photographer is over on the ledge, come back around and do Taste of Honey, another fine route.

Did this route on a rainy day, with some crazy German climber. #3 cam protects the crux, but don't place it where you need to jam. One of the most painful routes I did at Arapiles--you're turning a roof on a sharp jam.

A must-do route for those hoping to follow in the brash American's footsteps. Take plenty of medium nuts and a couple larger cams. By Arapiles standards, a longish approach.

What a fun route! Not a bad rainy day option, too.

This is a fun sport-bolted face route, but gets a lot of traffic, especially from visiting sport-climbers who want to send something hard without placing gear. For a more challenging and more exposed route with comparable difficulty, try Dispatched.

Crux for me was the last traverse--there's a white, sandy, blobby hold that inspires no confidence. Make sure to consider your follower and place on the traverse, else he will swing into the nearby pillar.

But brilliant--this is the cover route of the Arapiles guidebook.

Hot route, cold day. Don't forget the seasons are reversed if you plan a climbing trip down here. Good gear, great exposure.

Very good pro until second pitch. For Suicide, a soft rating.