jgregory's Logbook (28 ascents)

Loved the parallel crack feature. tons of fun!

first time climbing at Looking Glass. Really enjoyed this route.

top rope. the right leaning crack felt like 5.9. The mantle move (5.10 crux) was harder, but the rest of the climb felt like a 5.8-5.9. I was very happy to add this one to my list as it is my first climb in the 5.10 range. Tried Burn Crack (10c) on Practice wall afterwards and kept getting spit off due to a bad start sequence.

fun moves for sure. the crack is just awesome. great opportunity for liebacking if you want, or just use the crack as a continuous side pull while using features on the left face.

getting up to the roof was more difficult than I remember, but still really fun.

I posted a while back mentioning the rusty pins at the top and now all of the bolts have been replaced as well as the pins. Thanks for the maintenance!
On a side note, we climbed this route after already having our fingers take a beating on a few more Crowder's routes...this one is easy, but it HURTS those paddies! It's like angry sandpaper! :)

loved this one. used it as a warm up to The Wall, which is right next door to the right.

fun

Slung the tree at the bottom for the first pro. The left crack accepts great gear. Lacing it up most of the way is totally possible until the crack thins out and pushes you out right on the face. I was trying to conserve energy so I ran it out (and from the looks of other peoples' postings that is normal). I found a great # 0.5 Cam placement overhead where I made the traverse and then it was easy ground to the butress on the right. We rapped from the rings on top of the butress. I agree with mjwestlake that pitch 2 looks sketch. Would love to get some experience perspective on how to tackle that one.

a side note for me is that this was my first full trad 5.6. Getting better slowly but surely! :)

I follwed as a third on the 1st pitch of this one while a buddy of mine completed his first sport lead. Then I led the second pitch clean. Great gear placements! I always forget that there is a really great #3 Cam placement on the right as soon as you bump up and around the corner after the 1st pitch belay station.