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jolery's Logbook (49 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Ozarks: Shepherd Springs: Bluffline

Hooks for Feet Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: jolery on 2009-02-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Nice line

Cool route - hard first move. Probable ground fall if you fall before/while clipping second bolt, solid clip stance though. Second bolt isn't hidden, it's just too high (or first is a little low) Noticed one loose block hold could come off, about grapefruit size

Added: 2009-02-16

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Ozarks: Shepherd Springs: Bluffline

A Blocky Ambition Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jolery on 2009-02-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars great route, tough start

Second bolted route from left end of bluffline. Hard, bouldery start followed by easier climbing. Well protected, shorter than most at Shepherd, easier than most at Shepherd at this grade.

Added: 2009-02-16

Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Northern Colorado: Lumpy Ridge: Batman Pinnacle

Batman and Robin Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jolery on 1999-07-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice route

Easy route, pinnacles are always cool regardless of the grade

Added: 2009-02-12

Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Boulder Area: Flatirons - Third Flatiron: East Face

Standard East Face popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jolery on 1999-05-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars chill but rap anchor sucks

Great route, incredible scenery, the plains melt away in the distance, awesome exposure. Downsides are this climb sees tons of traffic, when I climbed it there were climbing parties everywhere, didn't have to wait to climb, did have to wait to rappel. At the time, there was a single eyebolt sticking 4+ inches out of the rock which you have to rappel off of the summit. This anchor bends under the weight of people rapping off, a lot. There is only one anchor - hopefully this has been replaced as it is a tragedy waiting to happen - it WILL break someday.

Added: 2009-02-12

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Ozarks: Lake Lincoln Crags: Dead man's wall

KMWN Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: jolery on 1998-06-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice little route

Nice layback crack on big boulder by lake near Sticky Stuff. Probably be good short trad lead - careful without rope as landing on sharp boulder would suck big time.

Added: 2009-02-11

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Ozarks: Shepherd Springs: Bluffline

The American Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: jolery on 2009-02-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars HARD

Very cool climb, very sustained, seems a bit harder than 10d. Pretty much a thin finger crack climb most of the way. Usual boulder problem start. Definitely need to place a piece to prevent ground fall. This is the first route after you descend from a giant boulder if you're coming from the designated walk-up.

Added: 2009-02-09

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Ozarks: Shepherd Springs: Bluffline

Rage Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jolery on 2009-01-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great climb

Just to the right of Spermalita, closed rap anchors. Great rock, thin holds, nice jug to pull small roof feature

Added: 2009-02-09

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Ozarks: Shepherd Springs: Bluffline

Addicted to Love Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: jolery on 2009-02-08 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars a little easier than it looks

Cool climb, only issue with runout is falling after third bolt, as there are slabby bits and ledges below that you would probably hit hard, if in doubt take a little pro.

Added: 2009-02-09

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Ozarks: Shepherd Springs: Bluffline

Wrestling with an Alligator Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jolery on 2009-02-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars nice easy route for Shepherd Springs

This was a fun short bolted route. Climb up to a big ledge, clip first bolt from ledge, then straight up. Transitioning from the cliff face to the giant boulder where the anchors are, there's a long, pointy boulder sticking out over the edge - great hold, a little scary as it's resting on a slope and isn't really big.

Added: 2009-02-09

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Ozarks: Shepherd Springs: Bluffline

Trummertrango Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: jolery on 2009-02-08 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars mantles are the key

This is a sweet climb - very different climbing from usual Arkansas sandstone. Mantle move is badass, full-on pull-up, mantle, then get both feet up. Top is tricky as usual at Shepherd Springs.

Added: 2009-02-09

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