Routes : Reviews
metamorphicfour's Logbook (54 ascents)
Climbing Log | Hit List (0)
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Routes: North America: United States: Missouri: Central Missouri: Providence
Ancient Sea Friends Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11b V2 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Red Point ascent by: metamorphicfour on 2011-01-29
(View Climbing Log)
11ish feel
Lower slab feels no harder than 5.9 moves. This applys to any move below the main dihedral roof, for at this point, the route turns into a different beast.
To pull the main roof, most climbers head out left, following the horizontal crack, then attack the upper dihedrel. I suggest using the undercling on the roof, a high step with the left foot, to gain the main horizontal edge on the face of this upper dihedral. The left hand moves off the undercling and works up a thin crack until standing upright while pressing on the upper roof. Step high and right with the right foot while converting the upper roof edge into a series of underclings and pinches. Reach far right to next obvious hold (hatchet) to gain the top hold (ax head). Now clip to rap anchors.
To pull the main roof, most climbers head out left, following the horizontal crack, then attack the upper dihedrel. I suggest using the undercling on the roof, a high step with the left foot, to gain the main horizontal edge on the face of this upper dihedral. The left hand moves off the undercling and works up a thin crack until standing upright while pressing on the upper roof. Step high and right with the right foot while converting the upper roof edge into a series of underclings and pinches. Reach far right to next obvious hold (hatchet) to gain the top hold (ax head). Now clip to rap anchors.
Added: 2013-02-17
Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Boston Mountain Range: Sams Throne: Patio Wall
Edge of Flight Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by: metamorphicfour on 1993-10-02
(View Climbing Log)
Must climb arete for 5.10ers
Pick a cool day
Added: 2007-12-02
Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Boston Mountain Range: Sams Throne: Patio Wall
Instant Karma Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | G |
Fun Factor |
Red Point ascent by: metamorphicfour on 1991-10-10
(View Climbing Log)
will never forget this one climbed over and over
I jumped to the point then pulled back into crack. You can finish going up along edge of upper face or traverse out left.
Added: 2007-12-02
Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Boston Mountain Range: Sams Throne: Valley of the Blind
Painted Warrier Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11d |
Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by: metamorphicfour on 1997-10-02
(View Climbing Log)
Exploring this valley after discussions with Clay
Stunning orange glow with the right light. I enjoied the climb from bottom to top. Head over to this valley from Sam's via road or cut across. A fire road goes along valley floor.
Added: 2007-12-02
Routes: North America: United States: Texas: West Texas: Hueco Tanks State Historic Site: North Mountain: Deliverence Boulder
Manly Stuff Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | V4 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Solo ascent by: metamorphicfour on 1993-12-30
(View Climbing Log)
v4
Top of clib is the difficuly of route. Thin edges and a very sharp right hand razor help you pull onto the upper slope.
PG13 for the downclimb
PG13 for the downclimb
Added: 2007-12-02
Routes: North America: United States: Texas: West Texas: Hueco Tanks State Historic Site: North Mountain: Deliverence Boulder
Southern Hospitality Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | V2 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Solo ascent by: metamorphicfour on 1993-12-30
(View Climbing Log)
V2
Top out on thin flakes. PG 13 because you down climb on a v1, down clib sucks for all these routes.
Added: 2007-12-02
Routes: North America: United States: Texas: West Texas: Hueco Tanks State Historic Site: North Mountain: The Grenade
Nobody Here Gets Out Alive Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | V3 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Solo ascent by: metamorphicfour on 1991-11-30
(View Climbing Log)
One of my favs at Hueco
Huge jugs under overhang, crux is at sit start move and at the lip. Start from sitting positiion
Added: 2007-11-25
Routes: North America: United States: Texas: West Texas: Hueco Tanks State Historic Site: North Mountain: Lunch Rocks Area
Hard Again Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | V3 |
Safety Rating | G |
Solo ascent by: metamorphicfour on 1992-11-30
(View Climbing Log)
Classic V3 standard
Always remember this one.
Added: 2007-11-22
Routes: North America: United States: Texas: West Texas: Hueco Tanks State Historic Site: East Mountain: Central Dragon's Den
Osterizer Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | V3 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Onsight ascent by: metamorphicfour on 1994-11-30
(View Climbing Log)
Not as classic as Hobbit but a nice warmup
Go for pocket in the open book
Added: 2007-11-22
Routes: North America: United States: Texas: West Texas: Hueco Tanks State Historic Site: East Mountain: Central Dragon's Den
Ostracizer Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | V2 |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: metamorphicfour on 2007-11-22
(View Climbing Log)
short, start low
warmup
Added: 2007-11-22