Skip to Content

Routes : Reviews

morlebeke's Logbook (116 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (0)



Show: Sort by: Display:

Comments:  Show | Hide

> >|

Routes: North America: United States: California: Bishop and Eastern Sierra: Cardinal Pinnacle: Cardinal Pinnacle

West Face Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: morlebeke on 2010-07-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars incredible route

I think P2 might be the best pitch I've been on. I thought P1 and P3 had harder sections. P1 is very thin pro, P2 starts with #2 size slammer hands, but you won't use another #2 after that section so no worries. P3 had a thin section that was mere tips, but my partner fit in a couple fingers in the same spot. P4 is pretty short, the 'stairs' to the left to the rap anchors are a relief after the chimney moves. If you keep traversing left there is first a sling / rap ring, but further around a rope stretching 60m single rope rappel to the gulley behind.

a 'must do' for any 10a leader in my opinion

Added: 2010-07-19

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Bruise Brothers Wall

Workin'for the weekend Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: morlebeke on 2009-10-08 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars nice

route finding important

Added: 2009-10-08

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Muscle Beach

Rocket Man 5.8+ ** Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: morlebeke on 2009-07-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars definitely quality

found plenty of fist jams deep in, but you better have good OW footwork. very little on the face, good stuff

definitely on my list of routes I want to lead

Added: 2009-07-16

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Tuolumne Meadows: Daff Dome: South Flank

It Is Finished Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: morlebeke on 2008-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars top rope messing around

tried this with a quarter sized slice in my left big toe, inside edge, from a slip on the el cap approach trail 2 days earlier. using 'comfy' shoes that edge for crap, was almost able to still climb this whole thing. better shoes I think I could lead this even.

Added: 2008-09-02

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Tuolumne Meadows: Daff Dome: South Flank

Great circle route. Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
Onsight Onsight ascent by: morlebeke on 2008-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun top rope setup

stopped at the first anchor to set up a top rope, able to try the .11a next to it

Added: 2008-09-02

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Tuolumne Meadows: Fairview Dome: North Side

Fairview Dome Regular Route popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: morlebeke on 2008-08-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars a few classic pitches

best route I've climbed, I'd say, just for the continually good pitches through the route. don't let the guide fool you, the first pitch isn't all that hard as they make it out to be. crux has a bit of sequence to it, but it's lower angle with a good stance up to it, so you have all day to study it if need be. I think every 5.8 and 5.7 pitch were the best, shared leads with Jared. I'll concur with '50 classic' status

Added: 2008-09-02

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Tuolumne Meadows: Lembert Dome: Northwest Face

Northwest Books popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: morlebeke on 2008-08-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars argh

first 2 pitches worth it, did the 5.9 variation and slipped on a dynamic move and tested my best gear placement of the week ironically enough. skipped the bolt on the first pitch, why bother.

Added: 2008-09-02

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Tuolumne Meadows: Pywiack Dome: Northwest Face

Zee Tree Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: morlebeke on 2008-08-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars toulumne sport! (almost)

agreed on not much gear, link cams work great for a top of 3rd pitch belay, barely stretched enough to link the 2nd and 3rd pitches. OW last pitch corner, all I had was a few small cams, think a green alien went in the horizontal and I ran the rest out. one big cam, guessing a #5, would protect this fine. plenty of belay options on top. left my shoes in a shady spot, katanas worn through @ the toe, anyone see them? lol

Added: 2008-09-02

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Tuolumne Meadows: Stately Pleasures Dome: South Side

Hermaphrodite Flake popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: morlebeke on 2008-08-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars going under's where it's at!

something unique, not often you can slither under a humongous flake held up by being wedged in a couple small spots

Added: 2008-09-02

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Tuolumne Meadows: Stately Pleasures Dome: South Side

West Country Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: morlebeke on 2008-08-22 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars nice granite warmup for altitude

pretty easy for 5.7, simple slab friction for the most part, tempted to skip all the bolts...

a great place to acclimate though

Added: 2008-09-02

> >|