pmcheng's Logbook (125 ascents)

There are not a lot of chimneys where I normally climb but I really enjoy being able to use my whole body. Loved this climb, ended up using the rusty piton and placing two questionable cams and resting on them... but I made it to the top.

Holds are hidden and somewhat reachy. Climb had a lot of lichen on it, and be careful at the top or you can rain down a lot of rubble on anyone below. The view at the top is epic!

Was working on technique with a friend on this one. Tried using my legs more because there are great footholds but still pumped out. Want to come back and do it again!

This was a great climb. My friend Colleen lead it and said I would regret it if I didn't lead it. She was right. It was a fun climb and well protected.

This is one of the only sport climbs in Patrick's Point. It's a challenging route with a few bouldery moves but mostly thin and balancy. One thing I noticed is that when you are looking up at the rock, there is an optical illusion making the lower half of the climb appear low angle and the upper part vertical. In reality, the lower part is nearly vertical and the upper part is overhanging. Makes it look easier from the ground. Bolt spacing is close, but I say PG13 because you should definitely inspect any bolts this close to the Ocean spray.

Slab start, to a lieback crack to lieback hand holds that go all the way to the top. The feet are very hard to find and sometimes you're just smearing on the friction of the limestone. Look for fossils on your way up.

IF you dislike your belayer and want to throw dictionary size chunks of rock at their head.... IF you need the extra thrill of wondering whether every hold will crumble or pop off before you can clip the next bolt.... IF you hate using your feet anyways... IF you are just too lazy to walk 20 feet over and climb Hole in the Wall... then you should climb Sunshine route! Otherwise pass on this one. By the time it gets cleaned up to solid holds it will be a 5.13.
Seriously though, pitch 1 is somewhat fun and fine (though still crumbly), probably more like a 5.10a at this point. Pitch two is very scary and I fell and hung a lot, ended up traversing over and bypassing some bolts over a bulge with no features.

As a short person who can't just clip the bolts while using the easier arete moves and also too short to make some of the moves up the face-- I had to climb up and then over to the arete and traverse over to the bolts to clip them, then traverse back to the arete, etc. I brought a small cam with me to protect the arete while I traversed. Made this climb a lot trickier but I felt pretty accomplished at the top.

Be prepared to wait in line for this route. We were there in late November and still had to wait until the end of the day. You will likely have to share the start with someone climbing the route to the right. Still, awesome time on giant jugs.

Fun bouldery start to face moves that test your balance.