radistrad's Logbook (58 ascents)

I love this climb, some awesome hand jamming. A 60M rope will barley top rope the first pitch, it comes up short dont drop any one. The most exciting part is getting to the first pitch anchors.

BT is a great route, I've climbed it many times. Bring at least on 4" piece for the wide section.
I do the route in one pitch with a 60M rope. I found it best to solo up the 5.6 crack and belay from the top of that, it gets you into the sun, you can see the leader for the entire pitch, you avoid the junk and stuff on the right side and you get to go through the small roof into excellent hands. This is a must do climb for any one looking to improve their Yosemite crack skills.

This 10a is a great pinscar crack, learn those and you'll be mastering a very useful Yosemite Technique. This also makes great first C1 aid climb.

I thought this route was great. At least until I got to the slab pitch, this counts as a classic Tuolumne run out! The slab pitches turned out to be easy, but scary, I was glad to get off.

This is the first climb in Yosemite to be climbed with nuts only, no pitons. Royal Robins put up this classic. The mantle is not as bad as its ankle breaking reputation. Look for the foot hold to the right. I dont remember using any large gear on this route. Fun, but be the first of the line. Yosemite is not known for its easy climbs, this is one of the few good multipitch 5.8's.

An outstanding climb, the tallest rock in the Meadows.
For and exciting varation and a way to pass slower parties, take the "Wonderful Wino" dog leg crack that starts in the middle of the "u" shaped bowl. I beleive this is after pitch 4 and it eliminates the traverse pitch. Be careful of rope drag on the second pitch of the "Wino" variation.
Dont get stuck in a thunder storm on this rock. Start early and be the first party of the day. With a 60M rope we were able to make it to the "U" bowl in 3 pitches, stretch the heck out of the rope on the 4th class pitches up top. An easy decent down endless slabs, gotta love the slab decents.

With a 60M rope the first and second pitch can be combined. The third pitch (2nd if you combine) has a airy start to it, up some nice dikes off of the big ledge clip the bolt and run it out. This is the first route I've simul-climbed. A great run for any one.

A Tuolumne classic. The 5.8 off width is more of a knob climb than an OW. There are soooo many knobs on the third you'll only use the crack for pro, belay where the crack turns into thin hands/fingers. Run the 4th pitch as far as the rope will allow. To rap, head towards Fairview dome Regular Route, follow the carins and it is two single rope raps from the bolts (2 bolted stations). The second rap is overhanging and makes for a great picture with Fairview in the backround. A great way to start is to climb Alimony Crack (I think,I dont have my book to check, its the double 5.8+ crack), leave your packs at the base. After Alimony walk over to West crack (close and easy), fly up that and the rappel off of DAFF will return you near your packs. You then can climb The Honey Moon cracks and the Great Circle. Make a day out of the area! I thought it was Fairview dome that was in the 50 classics.

The tree on the first pitch is missing.
This rote tops out next to Nutcracker, if you take all 5 pitches. The first pitch is the crux. A nice route to get into Yosemite climbing.

This is a classic Indian rock route, edges and a few pockets. I have to get my feet high at the crux and reach high.