spokanebob's Logbook (5 ascents)

I have lead this route several times and it is a fun, safe little lead. I think the rating is a little "soft," at 5.10c. When I compare it to established 5.10c routes such as Lunatic Fringe in the Valley, the rating seems "soft." I would drop it at least one notch, likely two--i.e., 5.10b or 5.10a, to bring it in line with other established areas. It is a fun route with some interesting, non-obvious features, but very safe, and a good place to climb when it is hot.

I lead this onsight belayed by Kevin Klim, all on cams. The route is very protectable with a good cam placement in front of you for every move. I first thought the need for the bolts was that perhaps the flakes and edges were loose or weak. But that is not the case. I found solid cam placements everywhere I wanted to place a cam. I recommend to other climbers to dispense with the quickdraws and enjoy this modest challenge on gear--it is fun and fairly straightforward.

I lead this onsight a few years ago and used gear about 50% of the time, though it is all bolted. One could use gear on about 75% of the route, clipping the odd bolt here and there. The difficulty seemed about 5.10a/b to me at the time. Clipping all the bolts and not bothering with the gear would titlt it to the 5.10a side of things. A nice route and a bit longer than is typical for this area. Cheers, Bob Loomis, Spokane, Washington

Good fun crack climb. I hung a bit at the top to clean out the mass of pine needles and moss at the top, hence the hang. Otherwise an onsight first ascent. Bob Loomis

A neat challenging finger crack. I led it with several hangs cleaning out lichen and moss at points, trying to on-sight it, but with the moss and lichen, and some friable edges, did not get it. But Kevin Klim seconded it with one hang. There were five climbers out at the rocks that day, plus four dogs, hence Kevin's idea for a name. Bob Loomis