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Black Widow - 5.10a

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Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
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Paul Dovydaitis, Dave Aubrey. June 2009.
Rock (Trad)
Adequate protection (cams, nuts) throughout. Save two small-mid size cams for the first belay. The topout is onto grass, so the last 3-4 meters are runout as the grass/soil begin.
Consensus Ratings
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Located in a small canyon on the peak that's on the same side of the river as the dhabas. From the dhabas it's pretty much straight on (the same canyon contains several other great routes as well). The locals will get unhappy if you walk through their fields, so walk around them to the left and proceed up the grassy slope to the right of the stream coming from the canyon. Once you get up past the steep bit, there is an obvious flat area of black rock with good places to set packs next to the river. The climb is the obvious corner crack just to the right. The route itself is two short pitches of strenuous climbing on good holds. We made the first belay about half way up the route, just below the white/black patch (crux). The right wall has a horizontal crack at roughly head height that can accommodate two med/small cams. Second pitch follows the route the rest of the way up - beware the last 5 meters are a little chaucy as the grass starts, there is a good belay at the top. Also note - rockfall is a serious risk all over this area. This route itself was relatively clean at the time we climbed it, but the walk-in is steep and its wise to spread out and be vigilant to avoid knocking anything down on your partners.

Descent Options:

You can walk around to the back of the canyon and down, although this is not quick and requires some sure-footedness. Abseil descent also possible though you may have to leave a nut.

Submitted by: dovyman on 2010-01-03
Last Modified: 2010-02-04
Views: 440
Route ID: 103141

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