Most popular route on 1-2-3, often a queue. Start at corner opposite end of small rockface (Pinnacle).
1st pitch (5.9) and 2nd pitch (5.10b) can be climbed as a single pitch with a 60m rope. Finish in a nice little cave, have a smoke and enjoy the view.
For 3rd pitch, check with local guides on condition of bolts and anchors.
Submitted by: kwango on 2006-07-20
Route ID: 9303
Great route, one of my favourite at Railay. Very easy for the grade. Would have graded it 5.9 myself, but always good to keep the tourists happy. The cave at the end of pitch 2 is a great place for a break and a snack. The third pitch is incredibly fun and has some nice exposure. A must climb for any climber regardless of abilities.
On all 1-2-3 routes, get there early...you beat the crowds and the heat! Fun, long route...more polished and balancey than We Sad, Make a Way, and Dr Jekyll. You will pass 2 anchors enroute to the final anchor for a 60 m rope. Very long. Crux is 10 ft above the 1st anchor. Move left of the bolt at the polished, slightly buldging face to find a few pockets to pull on up.
We came during low-season, and we still never got to climb the second pitch! There are 2 routes that share the same anchors (Beginner 5 & this one). You start climbing one, then a guide will show up and race to the top (barefoot haha) and anchor in...making it so you can't do the second pitch. You can do both routes in one pitch with a 60m rope.
As for the first pitch of the route, it was fun and in a nice location. We came during almost high tide, and it was really pretty scenery. I had no trouble with it (I'm short and little), but some of my taller male friends found the top a tiny bit harder than the rest. Overall a fun route, I just wish we could have done the second pitch!