Start on left edge of tufas, shared with Beauty and Beast, to ledge/cave. P2 is up left on tufas. P3 up good rock to cave. P4 to ledge and into orange overhang. P4 has belay midway for both climbers to lower to. Best if both lead and are lowered to this belay station.
four raps w/60m
Submitted by: sonso45 on 2007-02-25
Last Modified: 2011-07-13
Route ID: 83836
Now this climb has Ti bolts. Nonetheless a serious climb so you need to be solid at the grade (and your second). Did this with alternating leads with Noh. Great fun. Missed the last couple of meters but ok.
I on-sighted the top 2.5 pitches (past the intermediate anchor on last pitch). This was done by topping out on Beauty and the Beast and crossing over through the small cave to the left, letting you out just below the top of the 3rd pitch of The Wave. The rock gets sharp up there and the finish is stupendous! A final stalactite leads you to a small nook just below the tree line from whence to belay. The anchor looked pretty old, so I backed it up. Be very careful rappelling! The upper pitches are easier with some back-clipping or else some hefty swinging to reach the anchors. We rappelled the final pitch in the dark, and it's a good thing we had a knot in the end of the rope, because for some inexplicable reason, I found it in my ATC just about 5 meters below the rap station! That would have been the end for me. Always tie a knot!!! Even (especially!) if you are in a hurry to beat the dark. Needless to say, this was a great climb.