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direct ridge way - 5.10a

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Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
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Dirk Pietschmann
Rock (Trad)
R
5
trad
1000
Consensus Ratings
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Description:

Approach: Follow the Lycian Way to the south edge of the reef. When the way turns to the north ascend on the south-east side of the reef over blocks and ramps towards a prominent rock bridge with two openings through the ridge. Here, at the west side of the bridge, the route starts. From the rock bridge to the pillar: From the rock bridge ascend on the ridge in south direction. This is easy terrain, mostly 1 or 2 with some short sections 3 and one section 4, which is a short layback section leading to a big tree (this tree is also part of the descend route). After this tree, traverse slightly to the right into a wide crack and ascend further to the top of the big pillar to the right, which marks the end of the reef. The length of the route from the rock bridge to the pillar is around 200 meters. Build a belay at the highest block on the pillar directly in front of the wall. From the pillar to the top: 1. pitch, 30 meters (6+, mostly 5): From the pillar ascend slightly to the left in a small crack with partially loose rock and pass a dihedral to a small ledge (bolt). Climb further straight up through an overhang to a triangular recess (bolt). Ascend further slightly to the right in order to pass the recess. Above the recess traverse to the left towards a small ledge (bolt). Build a belay at the bolt. 2. pitch, 30 meters (6+, mostly 4): From the bolt ascend slightly to the right at a straight wall for approx. 3 meters (6+). Further up, the terrain towards the top becomes more and more easy. There is a further bolt, approx. 30 meters after the beginning of this pitch.

Submitted by: harsc on 2015-12-29
Views: 200
Route ID: 115979