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slab variant to pillar - 5.10a

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Route sequence (left to right): 6
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
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Dirk Pietschmann, F. Dacselt, H. Schmidt
Rock (Trad)
R
5
trad
600
Consensus Ratings
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Description:

This is a more ambitious variant to reach the pillar. Approach: As for the Direct Ridge Way, follow the route to the rock bridge. Pass a bolt. From the bolt rappel to the big tree through the opening and proceed at the south-east side of the mountain for approx. 150 meters at the same hight until the wall at the left side forms a prominent ramp section. 1. pitch (1-2): Start at the center of the ramp section and ascend to the right towards a small tree at the right side of the ramp. There is a bolt at the ramp above the tree (this bolt is also part of the descend route). 2. pitch (3-4): From the bolt ascend the ramp further straight up towards a large terrace. Use the big trees to build a belay. 3. pitch (5): At the terrace, build a belay at the big tree in front of the wall. From the tree ascend further, first straight wall then a dihedral. Further on, pass below a slight overhang and ascend the ramp to the right passing small trees. Build a belay at the bolt on the wall. 4. pitch (5+): From the bolt make a short traverse to the right, then further ascend towards a yellow overhang. Traverse to the left and further ascend in a dihedral. Build a belay at a block. 5. pitch (2): Further ascend in easy terrain in a wide crack to the top of the big pillar at the right side.

Submitted by: harsc on 2015-12-29
Views: 254
Route ID: 115980