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Lake Louise Falls - WI4

Average Rating = 4.70/5 Average Rating : 4.70 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (17)
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1974, Jack Firth
Ice
G
3
ScrewsStuff for V threads
360
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty WI4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.40/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.80/5

Description:

Short approach, and low commitment grade make this a popular route. The crux is the upper pillar and still turns many parties back, it (according to Jo Jo's "Waterfall Ice") can range anywhere from WI4-5

Descent Options:

There is a walk off to the right with slight danger of terrain traps, make sure you go far enough right to avoid the cliff bands. Otherwise rap from v-threads, or trees on either side of the falls.

Submitted by: stickit on 2006-03-20
Last Modified: 2015-10-13
Views: 1213
Route ID: 51361

17 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 17 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty WI5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Steve704 on 2015-12-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars 5+ today

Right hand pillar barely touching. Climbed Left hand side, extremely chandeliered ice. Stiff grade 5 today....Partner whipped while following when a tool blew out...bomber screws everywhere except the pillar which was tough to protect.

Added: 2016-02-19

Ratings
  Difficulty WI5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Steve704 on 2015-03-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Right hand pillar

Anyone calling this route in it's completion WI3 needs to spend more time on water ice and reevaluate their grading.....While easier than the right hand pillar, the left hand pillar is often still anywhere from WI4 to 5-..... I led the right hand pillar today and found it less featured, more brittle, steeper, if not over hanging for a short section, and generally harder than Carlsberg Column (which I led two days later), which is a classic WI5 in the range. Right hand pillar goes at WI5+

Added: 2015-03-23

Ratings
  Difficulty WI5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Steve704 on 2015-01-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Best climb of the trip

After my partners swapped the first two shorter pitches, I drew the pillar, we elected to try the left hand one, but the right could have gone at a bit harder grade. The traverse from the cave to the pillar was sketch, and involved a heavy cold shower. With slightly overhanging chandelier ice on the pillar, it was definitely a stiff WI4, maybe 5-

Added: 2015-02-23

Ratings
  Difficulty WI3
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: satch on 2015-02-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great route and great otter slide

Crowded but beautiful. Just climbed to the cave. Hope to do it all next time.

Added: 2015-02-11

Ratings
  Difficulty WI4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: Colinhoglund on 2012-01-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun day.

Best part of the day was the otter slide on the way out! (kidding)

Added: 2012-01-23

... Read all 17 ascent notes