Average Rating : 4.70 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (17)
1974, Jack Firth
ScrewsStuff for V threads
Short approach, and low commitment grade make this a popular route. The crux is the upper pillar and still turns many parties back, it (according to Jo Jo's "Waterfall Ice") can range anywhere from WI4-5
There is a walk off to the right with slight danger of terrain traps, make sure you go far enough right to avoid the cliff bands. Otherwise rap from v-threads, or trees on either side of the falls.
Submitted by: stickit on 2006-03-20
Last Modified: 2015-10-13
Route ID: 51361
Right hand pillar barely touching. Climbed Left hand side, extremely chandeliered ice. Stiff grade 5 today....Partner whipped while following when a tool blew out...bomber screws everywhere except the pillar which was tough to protect.
Anyone calling this route in it's completion WI3 needs to spend more time on water ice and reevaluate their grading.....While easier than the right hand pillar, the left hand pillar is often still anywhere from WI4 to 5-..... I led the right hand pillar today and found it less featured, more brittle, steeper, if not over hanging for a short section, and generally harder than Carlsberg Column (which I led two days later), which is a classic WI5 in the range. Right hand pillar goes at WI5+
After my partners swapped the first two shorter pitches, I drew the pillar, we elected to try the left hand one, but the right could have gone at a bit harder grade. The traverse from the cave to the pillar was sketch, and involved a heavy cold shower. With slightly overhanging chandelier ice on the pillar, it was definitely a stiff WI4, maybe 5-