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Greenwood/Jones - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock
Full set nuts,cams to 4",pins from KB's to shallow angles
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

V 5.9 1000m Start at the easiest looking break in the first band (5.5 40m). Climb easy scree and ledges to the ridge crest (200m) Join the spur from the right where the wall steepens. Many many pitches on the rib climbing excellent quartzite. Eventually you'll reach the final head wall at a steep red pillar above a good flat ledge. Walk left and around the corner and cross an exposed shale legde past an overhanging corner to a fixed pin, belay. Climb the groove above for 50m (5.8) to a shale ledge. Walk 50m right on the shale ledge to a crack belay. Climb above the crack to the alcove under a large white roof. Choose you exit from there. Retreat is possible by rappelling the right side of the rib on mostly natural sling anchors. Some fixed stations at 60m intervals.

Submitted by: tonydevo on 2004-08-30
Views: 1274
Route ID: 46579

2 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2012-08-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good route, long

In summer in dry conditions this is basicly a very long rock route, the walk in is a good walk with little up hill, the walk around the lake is stright forward keeping close to the shore, the walk up the boulder feild is long however good travle can be had. I took the first pitch through a break that was a bit wet, felt closer to 5.7, the scrambling has good travle on the rock ledges to the rib. We simule climbed about 150-200m of 5.5+ climbing to the steeper rib. We started pitching it out as my partner was a bit weaker but I would suggest to simulclimb a bit further. You can almost climb anywhere on the rib for many many pitchs. At the steeper wall I went right insted of left because of trying to keep my partner protected from the runout traverse, I messed around looking for a break untill I went up the leaning tower that took me into a steep groove that climbed the corner at 10a with a pin in place and ok pro. I topped out on a ledge a pitch below the top main headwall. We bivyed there somewhat protected from above but not from wind. In the morning I travesed the loose ledge left and got back on route. The crack corner system climbed well past a few pins onto a very loose wide gully, stick to the right for the best rock and protect before leaveing the real climbing. About another 15m up and right found another good ledge with cracks for a good anchor. A 5.7ish crack system to the right took me to a two pin anchor and a tower with a sling on it. Lots of tat there that looks like a retreat but was good anyways. I headed up the tower to a couple of pins and than into a very loose rotten litle alcove to as single pin and nut fixed belay. Up left past one pin into the steep corner carck with steady climbing at grade to the two pin semi hanging anchor. Head up again to a 2-3 pin anchor for the traverse to the right on good holds and very airy. The line countinues right trending up steady face climbing with spaced pins at grade to a small roof below a larger one, I made my way over the roof and than made thin moves right to get to a good crack that let me clip a high pin and than step far right to get on to the face around the corner on good rock, try to frind some pro to protect your second here, another 20 ft right find a good 2 pin anchor with one easy pitch to the top out to a scree slope and a small back tower type scamble. running water can be found on the top right side of the scramble.

Fun route, very long, took a single set to #4 bd and full set of nuts and a few pins that I placed once for an anchor. This route would be horriable to retreat from above the first 6 pitchs of climbing. The cruxs at grade is steady and not easy 5.9, very much proper yam gradeing, in grassi it would be 10+

Added: 2012-08-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tonydevo on 2004-08-02 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

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Added: 2004-08-02