This route takes the east buttress of Slesse's third peak, left of the SE buttres of the south peak and just right of the obvious South Spur Couloir. It is possible to start via a 6 pitch direct start (5.9) or via a one pitch 5.8 start from partway up the couloir. Where the two routes join, several pitches of Class 3 and 4 lead to several more pitches to 5.8 up to the Crown of Gendarmes. A 30m rap off fixed pins from the backside of the Crown gains the notch. Continue up scrambling and two pitches of low class 5 to the summit of the SE peak.
The fastest descent is down the south spur couloir. 5 raps off pin stations plus ome snow downclimbing gets you back to the base. Pin stations may be missing or hard to see so bringing a dozen or so assorted pins is highly recommended.
Overall IV D 12 pitches 5.8 wth high start or 18 pitches IV D+ 5.9 with direct start
Submitted by: dru on 2005-12-06
Route ID: 72310