Routes : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Coast & Cascade Mountains : Mount Slesse : East Side : Northeast Buttress
Northeast Buttress -
Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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standard alpine trad rack. Bring slings for possible rappels. Ice axes and crampons may be necessa
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Description:
The prominent butress that dominates the East side of Slesse. The Bypass and Slesse glaciers can be problematic to cross, but they occasionally slide, which improves access. The lower 3/4 is mostly scrambling/climbing to mid fifth. The upper headwall is sustained in the 5.7 to 5.8 range with some sections of 5.9. The descent is either down the West Side or via Crosscut Pass. Plan your descent well. Rating: 5.9 TD
Submitted by: peas on 2004-07-26
Views: 1595
Route ID: 56567
10 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 10 ascent notes
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: AJones on 1997-08-05
(View Climbing Log)
Great route
Did it over two day in stellar weather. Crux is getting off the mountain and back to your vehicle. Epic! Very good route though - route finding skills are important.
Added: 2010-06-05
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: canmoron on 2009-08-21
(View Climbing Log)
Direct NE Buttress
We approached easily via the Propeller Cairn since the Bypass Glacier was pretty much gone and the North Glacier looked too scary to cross under. Lower buttress is overall quite mossy/slabby and up to 5.10a. Starts on a blocky arete with (initially) clean cracks. Descended via Crossover and down memorable, blackfly-infested bushwhacking. No ice axe or mtn. boots needed right now. No water available anywhere on the buttress.
Added: 2009-08-21
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: mar_leclerc on 2008-09-10
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awesome
did it on my 3rd try.. got weathered off twice before, excellent route and fantastic position.
Added: 2008-09-10
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Onsight ascent by: jand on 2006-09-14
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2006-09-14
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Red Point ascent by: hans37 on 2005-10-06
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2005-10-06