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Cams to 2', full set of stoppers
Located on a steep wall 25 meters to the right of the 'Kids and Old Guys' and 'Baby Steps' slab. Wayback Layback is the splitter on the left.
(P1) Climb an easy ramp (5.6) to below a small roof where the difficulties begin. Climb up to the akward roof and pull it on good fingerlocks. One can either balance left into a Layback which provides easier climbing but makes placing protection more difficult, or jam the leaning crack which makes for harder climbing but easier placements. There is a good rest where the crack widens in the middle but the climbing becomes difficult again near the top where the crack peeters out into face holds. There is a chain on the tree at the top of the pitch. Either lower/rap from the tree or climb the easy second pitch to reach the 'Stained Wall'.
(P2) An access pitch leading to the base of the 'Stained Wall'. From the belay climb up the slab with two bolts and up a rolling slab/arete to a large tree below 'Bigfoot'. This pitch is dirty but very easy, there is some pro available but if you made it up the first pitch you won't need much gear for the slab.
Submitted by: mar_leclerc on 2009-05-03
Route ID: 98233