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Black Magic - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 9
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
Premier Sponsor:
Kerry Greenley, Dave Jack and Hamish Mutch
Rock (Sport)
G
1
9-10 bolts [lots]
70
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.25/5
  Scenery 3.25/5
  Fun Factor 4.25/5

Description:

Located on the steep wall left of Black Arrow. Climb a few feet up the chimney to the first clip. Swing left onto the face, and let the "magic" begin. Follow the improbable line of bolts, with flakes, cracks, pockets and ledges appearing like "magic", allowing this imposing face to be climbed at a moderate 10a. The crux comes early, reaching the big pocket at 15 feet. Destined to become an area classic. Kerry's first new route--stand back world!!

Descent Options:

Chains or walk-off right.

Submitted by: Uncleh on 2007-09-04
Views: 739
Route ID: 88296

Most Recent Photos

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: BadBeta on 2013-07-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Black Magic

Fun route, with a variety of rock and moves.

Added: 2013-07-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: CamelCigarettePack on 2013-07-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Black Magic

Decent route. Fun from bottom to top. Have fun!

Added: 2013-07-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: TheSpaceman on 2013-06-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A good one!

Crux is low on the route and crimpy. As said well bolted you can probably skip a few clips to make it more interesting if your feeling it!

Added: 2013-07-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ndives on 2007-09-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice line boys!

Great right off the deck. Well bolted.

Added: 2007-09-09