Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
A. Marquardt, B. Mattingly
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
bolts and finger sized gear: maybe nuts and a couple tcus.
Three pitches, bolted crux 11c on second pitch. Great moves over a roof on last pitch.
Start on easy 5th to oak tree ledge just left of the Great Race arete @ 10 yds. Look for a large Oak tree about 35' above the trail. Continue in the finger crack behind the oak to a small roof(5.9); From this anchor traverse right 20' to steep face with 3 bolts. Trad gear above this to another bolt and the anchors just above the finishing crack(5.11c). Now for the real fun, a steep bolted face leads to a huge roof at the top(5.10d).
rap route w/60m, anchors wander from fall line; first rap is best if you place rap near the last bolt, you must use caution, the ropes get you near the station; second rap goes down and left.
Submitted by: sonso45 on 2005-06-30
Last Modified: 2008-10-28
Route ID: 61648
climbed third pitch great big moves and lie back over the first roof in Aug after rapping down from Gone Grey (good plan). First pitch could use a nut to protect one move, but it can go as a sport. Second pitch is the business, placed a nut after third bolt in order to move up to the left sloper which actually has a catch over the top. Good luck