Skip to Content

warhippies - 5.11c

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
Premier Sponsor:
A. Marquardt, B. Mattingly
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
G
3
bolts and finger sized gear: maybe nuts and a couple tcus.
240
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Three pitches, bolted crux 11c on second pitch. Great moves over a roof on last pitch. Start on easy 5th to oak tree ledge just left of the Great Race arete @ 10 yds. Look for a large Oak tree about 35' above the trail. Continue in the finger crack behind the oak to a small roof(5.9); From this anchor traverse right 20' to steep face with 3 bolts. Trad gear above this to another bolt and the anchors just above the finishing crack(5.11c). Now for the real fun, a steep bolted face leads to a huge roof at the top(5.10d).

Descent Options:

rap route w/60m, anchors wander from fall line; first rap is best if you place rap near the last bolt, you must use caution, the ropes get you near the station; second rap goes down and left.

Submitted by: sonso45 on 2005-06-30
Last Modified: 2008-10-28
Views: 963
Route ID: 61648

Most Recent Photo

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: sonso45 on 2007-10-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars finally got on it.

Nice and steep with thin moves on the crux to a sloper with an edge and a fun rickety mantle to boot.

Added: 2007-10-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: laurelja on 2007-09-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars two attempts

climbed third pitch great big moves and lie back over the first roof in Aug after rapping down from Gone Grey (good plan).
First pitch could use a nut to protect one move, but it can go as a sport. Second pitch is the business, placed a nut after third bolt in order to move up to the left sloper which actually has a catch over the top. Good luck

Added: 2007-08-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
Flash Flash ascent by: ccox on 2005-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-06-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gordo_az1970 on 2005-01-15 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Incredible route!

Witnessed by: Drew
Added: 2005-01-15