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Space Cadet - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.20/5 Average Rating : 4.20 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock
Small to medium gear
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.75/5
  Scenery 3.75/5
  Fun Factor 4.25/5

Description:

Climb thin crack (5.9) to small belay ledge. Continue past face and cracks to the top. This climb can be lead as one pitch with a 200' rope and proper runnering. There's a two bolt chain anchor at the top that has been recently installed. I believe you may need two 165' ropes to descend. Otherwise walk off. Mega Classic!

Submitted by: climblouisiana on 2002-08-07
Views: 668
Route ID: 21707

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: sun2stone on 2010-12-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars SC

a proud lead due to runout past the last small wire in the seam to then crip the crux and runout to old bolt 20' above.
Feel glorious for weeks !

Added: 2012-02-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: laurelja on 2007-11-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Don't be a space cadet

Yeah the seam is thin girl fingers and the feet are bad, but suck it up and do it. Defintely the crux of the WHOLE route. Second pitch just demands a good head and concentration.

Added: 2007-11-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating R
Second Second ascent by: aerili on 2007-04-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Don't be a space cadet when you lead this!

If you do it in two pitches (recommended on a windy day): 5.9 rating for the start is a joke--even for 5.10 leaders. Even *I* couldn't get my tiny fingertips in the seam at times. P2 - holy dangerous runout, Batman! I seconded this clean, but a lead fall would be serious. You are face climbing polished slab that is quite steep at times with one manky bolt to protect a loooong way at this grade. The McDowells are just telling you, "You're my bitch and don't forget it."

Added: 2007-04-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: sjderis on 2007-02-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Thin and Fun

Crux comes low...Real thin but feet are pretty bomber the higher up you go...

Added: 2007-02-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: fritzski on 2006-11-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Recommended.

Great climb. First crux is thin slanting finger seam to start, then quickly moderates to belay. Second crux is smooth face just above to bolt (5.8-9 variation in crack just to right on arete).

Added: 2006-11-14