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Gypsy Conditions - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 8
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Mike'n'Cindy Gray, 12/25/2012
Rock (Sport)
4 bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


On the East Wall of the Troll Hut Corridor, this route snakes up just inside the arete and can actually be climbed as one of two routes; right of the bolts to the arete and top anchor, the moves are about 5.7; left of the bolts and straight up to the anchor via the overhanging top face, maybe 5.8+. Chains for extending the anchor are forthcoming, as they will start to be on any number of NDC climbs in the near future, eliminating the need for bail webbing and lost biners or quicklinks.

Descent Options:

Rap or lower from chain and anchors.

Submitted by: roninthorne on 2012-12-31
Last Modified: 2013-02-21
Views: 1247
Route ID: 113187

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: roninthorne on 2012-12-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A Christmas Day FA!

Arrived in the canyon to clouds, gusty 30 mph north winds, and temps in the low 30s F. Shouldered packs and bent to the wind and humped down to the shelter of the Troll Hut, inhaled some motivation, set anchors and rap-bolted this beauty in about an hour. Rested, waited for any hint of sun (in vain) and finally sent the FA in Gypsy Conditions; clouds and snow, wind and remote location.

Added: 2013-01-10