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Dead Meat - 5.7

Average Rating = 3.07/5 Average Rating : 3.07 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (22)
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Bolts and small to medium gear.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 2.86/5
  Rock Quality 3.43/5
  Scenery 3.88/5
  Fun Factor 2.88/5

Description:

Climb arete and face to overhang. Surmount overhang and continue past a couple of bolts on the face and arete. A couple of bolts were added to this climb.

Submitted by: climblouisiana on 2002-08-06
Views: 1133
Route ID: 21656

22 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Solo Solo ascent by: 205asobotka on 2012-03-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars fs

go right and hit the finger lock at roof

Added: 2012-03-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: 205asobotka on 2011-12-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars fun stuff

old school 5.7, roof was kinda tricky but there's probably an easier way to do it.

Added: 2011-12-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2011-12-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Yeah I would have to say

this one is at the higher end of 5.7, maybe like 5.7D or even 5.8A... The grade on this climb is no where near reality and the mental game brings it up a notch as well (30 year old stamped bolt hanger protecting ground fall from 50 feet.) Make damn well sure you feel comfortable on 5.9 in this area before giving this a go. Oh and bring a small cam/nut for the roof.

Added: 2011-12-12

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: on_rope on 2004-04-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars dead meat

fun stuff. great granite!

Added: 2010-02-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: csanich on 2009-10-16 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Granite is rough and this start is thin

The very bottom and the very top are tough 5.7. I would say the crux is right before the 1st bolt and this has to be a 5.8 move. We may be making it tougher than it should be by being too far right. But granite ratings seem to be tougher. Since the first bolt is high, and like I said the crux is right before it, at my level I wouldn't try to lead this (usually lead 5.8 and top rope 5.9). I would warn people who normally lead 5.7 that this one is dangerous as a sport climb lead.
The bottom face is thin, so really need to trust feet, and fingers will get ripped up. More work than fun. I did enjoy getting over the little roof.
I did this a year ago and again today, and both times I've fallen just before the fist bolt. I'd like to get this clean.
Haven't climbed granite in a while and it sure it tougher when you aren't use to it.

Added: 2009-10-16

... Read all 22 ascent notes