this one is at the higher end of 5.7, maybe like 5.7D or even 5.8A... The grade on this climb is no where near reality and the mental game brings it up a notch as well (30 year old stamped bolt hanger protecting ground fall from 50 feet.) Make damn well sure you feel comfortable on 5.9 in this area before giving this a go. Oh and bring a small cam/nut for the roof.
The very bottom and the very top are tough 5.7. I would say the crux is right before the 1st bolt and this has to be a 5.8 move. We may be making it tougher than it should be by being too far right. But granite ratings seem to be tougher. Since the first bolt is high, and like I said the crux is right before it, at my level I wouldn't try to lead this (usually lead 5.8 and top rope 5.9). I would warn people who normally lead 5.7 that this one is dangerous as a sport climb lead. The bottom face is thin, so really need to trust feet, and fingers will get ripped up. More work than fun. I did enjoy getting over the little roof. I did this a year ago and again today, and both times I've fallen just before the fist bolt. I'd like to get this clean. Haven't climbed granite in a while and it sure it tougher when you aren't use to it.