Routes : North America : United States : Arizona : Phoenix Area : Pinnacle Peak : Loafer's Choice Slab : Dead Meat
Dead Meat - 5.7
Average Rating : 3.07 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (22)
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Bolts and small to medium gear.
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Description:
Climb arete and face to overhang. Surmount overhang and continue past a couple of bolts on the face and arete. A couple of bolts were added to this climb.
Submitted by: climblouisiana on 2002-08-06
Views: 1484
Route ID: 21656
22 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 22 ascent notes
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Safety Rating | G |
Solo ascent by: 205asobotka on 2012-03-25
(View Climbing Log)
fs
go right and hit the finger lock at roof
Added: 2012-03-25
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Onsight ascent by: 205asobotka on 2011-12-11
(View Climbing Log)
fun stuff
old school 5.7, roof was kinda tricky but there's probably an easier way to do it.
Added: 2011-12-13
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Difficulty | 5.7 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Second ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2011-12-11
(View Climbing Log)
Yeah I would have to say
this one is at the higher end of 5.7, maybe like 5.7D or even 5.8A... The grade on this climb is no where near reality and the mental game brings it up a notch as well (30 year old stamped bolt hanger protecting ground fall from 50 feet.) Make damn well sure you feel comfortable on 5.9 in this area before giving this a go. Oh and bring a small cam/nut for the roof.
Added: 2011-12-12
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Second ascent by: on_rope on 2004-04-01
(View Climbing Log)
dead meat
fun stuff. great granite!
Added: 2010-02-18
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | R |
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Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Top Rope ascent by: csanich on 2009-10-16
(View Climbing Log)
Granite is rough and this start is thin
The very bottom and the very top are tough 5.7. I would say the crux is right before the 1st bolt and this has to be a 5.8 move. We may be making it tougher than it should be by being too far right. But granite ratings seem to be tougher. Since the first bolt is high, and like I said the crux is right before it, at my level I wouldn't try to lead this (usually lead 5.8 and top rope 5.9). I would warn people who normally lead 5.7 that this one is dangerous as a sport climb lead.
The bottom face is thin, so really need to trust feet, and fingers will get ripped up. More work than fun. I did enjoy getting over the little roof.
I did this a year ago and again today, and both times I've fallen just before the fist bolt. I'd like to get this clean.
Haven't climbed granite in a while and it sure it tougher when you aren't use to it.
The bottom face is thin, so really need to trust feet, and fingers will get ripped up. More work than fun. I did enjoy getting over the little roof.
I did this a year ago and again today, and both times I've fallen just before the fist bolt. I'd like to get this clean.
Haven't climbed granite in a while and it sure it tougher when you aren't use to it.
Added: 2009-10-16