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Positive Vibrations - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
Rock
Trad rack to 3" doubles or triples in the 3/4" to 2" size
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.83/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.83/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

If you like crack climbs this is a great route. It has everything except offwidth. First 2 pitches can be combined with a 200' rope. Can rap the route from top of pitch 5 with 2 ropes. Anchors at top of pitch 5 are hangers so if you rap from here you'll need to leave something. (But why would you want to rap?) I have it on good authority that you can rap from the top of the route if you go approx 60 ft right and either leave something or bring a drill and establish a rap station. Rap 130 feet to the anchors on a new route right of Positive Vibrations. Rap this route to the terrace at the top of pitch 5 on Positive Vibrations then continue down on Positive Vibrations. (you may need to leave short slings or other devices as the stations on the new route are set up with 2 bolts w/hangers as belay stations not rap stations) If you chose to do the traditional decent stay on the west side of the ridge as you traverse. Some down climbing is required.

Submitted by: johnr9q on 2004-11-22
Views: 460
Route ID: 56248

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8 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: canmoron on 2009-09-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars The real deal

This route is one of the finest on the continent. The only route I've done of comparable quality is Sunshine Crack in the Bugaboos.

Added: 2009-09-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: A-Bowl on 2009-07-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Had the Good Vibes on our Side!

Beautiful route. Really lucked out and hit it early on a perfect windless day. Splitters go forever... actually got pretty tired of the same ankle twistin style... but such perfect thin hands to locker jams thoughout. Linked 1&2 and 2&4... first crux what? felt like 10b or 10c. My girlfriend lead the "crux" pitch 6 and cruised it. Hardest part for us found on pitch 7... the flaired hands/slopey sidepulls. Good times. Definately do the corner to splitter finish instead of the birth canal. Way more classic and finishes much closer to the true summit. Lit a smokey treat up first try on the top... No wind! Was awesome!

Added: 2009-07-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: markguycan on 1997-07-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars 1997-07-22 w/ crackMD

'bout the scaredest I'd ever been on the botched descent.

Added: 2008-08-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2007-08-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Holy Shit!!

This route defines the term splitter crack. Every pitch is sustained 5.10 or harder, well protected, exposed, physical and extreamly bad ass. Every serious climber should have this route on the list. The Hulk is without a doubt the best granite not only in the Sierra, but the best in the whole U.S. It's like climbing all the best pitches on the Cookie cliffs in Yosemite all in one route.

Excellent.

Added: 2007-08-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mikecane303 on 2007-08-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Holy Cow!!!

Yeah, this route is good. It is everything it is cracked up to be, especially if you skip "the keyhole" and do the 5.10 b/c corner with a splitter finger crack on perfect granite to the right of the usual topout (make sure you do the one far enough to the right with PERFECT granite). This can be done in one long pitch (60m) if you don't place gear for the first 15 ft above the first large ledge. Follow the good crack as it veers to the right 15 ft from the summit and another short good quality crack will allow you to top out. Do Not continue up straight into crappy o/w thingy.

Added: 2007-08-20

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