Routes : North America : United States : California : Bishop and Eastern Sierra : Whitney Portal : Premier Buttress : Premier Route
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Premier Route - 5.8 A0
Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Premier Sponsor:
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F. Beckey, B. Goechel
Rock (Trad)
Aid
G
5
Rack to 3", new bolts to French-free the short 10c section (originally aid climbed).
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Description:
Another Becky route (5.8 A0 or 10c). Start at a small pine tree. Gear to 3". Traverse right to a bush in a crack. Head up brushy grainy cracks to the top of a pinnacle (or just below if using a 60m rope). Climb a thin face (10c) or aid (A0) up using 4 moderately spaced bolt hangers. Need to make a sketchy un-aided move to a 5th bolt then back to easier 5.8 face and final hand crack.Descent Options:
Three double rope rappels down the west face on new anchor stations into the gully left (west) of the buttress. Alternative: continue to climb for 2 pitches of 3rd/4th class to top of buttress and then rappel 30m and some down-climbing to reach the same
Submitted by: namascar on 2008-04-03
Last Modified: 2011-11-09
Views: 931
Route ID: 56039
2 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Second ascent by:
First aid climb
Led first pitch, crux at start. Used prusik to aid up th 10c crux on 3rd pitch. Crumbly face and scrubby cracks. Not that great.
Added: 2011-11-08
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
Onsight ascent by:
Ascent Note
Great route.
Added: 2004-07-17
