A four-pitch 5.4 bolted arete on a rock with commanding presence and a great view. A steep hike in (go all the way to the end of the trail) leads to a route covered in ASCA bolt replacements. A new rap anchor at the top and rap rings all along the route mean you can rap the route, but be aware: a 60m rope won't reach the ground from the first pitch's anchor. The first bolt can be used to let less confident climbers rap to the ground, but unless you want to leave a 'biner, the last person will have to downclimb the last 15 feet or so.
Submitted by: anson on 2005-08-30
Route ID: 69274
The approach was not too bad, despite being about 90 degrees and the climbing was really easy with the crux being getting off the ground. My brother and I switched leads, I led the first and third and my brother led the second and fouth. I think I went off route on the third pitch. It ended up getting very dirty, although easy, compared to the rest of the climb and I did not find any bolts for at least the last 50 feet. I ended up on the ledge near a small manzanita, very far left of the anchor, which is why I'm assuming I was off route. We brought our friend, who had never climbed before, and he loved it.
My dad and I decided to try out this route and it was really awesome! Very good route for a first time multi-pitch lead. My dad and I have have done multi-pitch before but this climb was a great warm up for the other awesome climbs at Pinnacles. The only part that was a little unnerving was the first pitch because between bolts 1 and 2 it's about 25 feet of climbing. If you fell after the first bolt you definitely would deck. The approach in isn't very hard either, it's easy to find the trail and well worth the hike to get to Costanoan. A recommended climb for anyone interested in multi-pitch sport climbing! I definitely will do this climb again!
Use long runners on p1 if you don't want alot of drag. Decking possible between bolts 1 and 2. I didn't think the entry move was 5.4 more like 5.6. You CANNOT rappel from p1 with a 60m rope. tradtimbo was either on a 70m and didn't know it or their rope stretches like a bungee. I left a screwlink on the first bolt so folks can rap to the ground with a 60m. You could downclimb but the last move or two would be tricky - why chance it? A 3/8"screwlink costs $2.35 Super fun climb to swing leads. All pitches have solid anchors and rap rings. At the top of P1 you'll find a rappel anchor plus two bolts for your bottom anchor to belay P2. olmc said P2 is runout - COMPLETELY FALSE - nicely spaced bolts and fun climbing P1 follows a weird line initially, feels contrived and is a poor choice of line until it gets out on the arete. Nice position and exposure, decent rock quality.
My first multi-pitch climb. Did in three pitches, with second ~180 feet. It was a great intro. All of the bolts were in good shape. Some runout however, especially on 2nd pitch. Solid belay rappel stations on ledges.
The walk off descent looked pretty ugly. Much better to rap down. Two ropes required.
Also, long, approach. Beautiful, but also a workout.
The final rap makes it to the ground without problems using a 60m rope. When you reach the knot (your feet are about 5 feet from the ground), untie it, equalize the ends, HOLD the rope above your rap device and let it slide through your rap devive. Your feet will now be on the ground, the rope stretched to its maximum and your holding it above your head. No need to scramble down.